Well something is certainly loose.Did you check the exhaust strap? The leaf spring bushes could be worn too I imagine.To ckeck that jack the body of the vehicle safely on jack-stands and then jack the rear axle slightly with a floor jack while looking at the bushes to see if there's excessive wear.If the whole rubber moves around in the leaf-spring eye then they are worn.If it is a truck then it's a good chance that's the problem since people tend to over-load them.I would also check for a broken leaf-spring, although I think the suspension would lean on one side if one was broken. DON'T GO UNDER THE VEHICLE WITH A JACK ONLY, BECAUSE SOMETIMES THEY COME DOWN IF THE JACK NEEDS BLEEDING AND YOU ARE NOT AWARE OF IT .

I think you have a broken leaf spring shackle that is located at the rear end of the spring. They usually rust so badly they can snap and then the spring is touching the bottom of the floor because it isn't attached to anything. Just did this fix on a Dodge 2500 pickup, 2001 and it was the pass side rear. All dealer parts. Spring was fine, just new shackle and the special bolts and nuts which had to be heated with oxy - acet to get it apart. Had to melt the rubber and then use an air chisel to get the bolt out of the spring

With the work performed and parts replaced so far - there are few possibilities left. Upper shock mounts worn, sway arm bushings worn, rear stabilizer end link bushings worn, leaf spring bushings worn.

There is a problem with the transfer case maybe or with the differentials having the incorrect gear lube. This vehicle has likely set a fault code in the transfer case module. Problems such as you describe always begin with a scan for fault codes but a professional level scanner will be needed to access the 4WD codes. This may not be the best DIY diagnostic and repair.

Several possibilities; faulty / worn front suspension bushing, faulty / worn upper strut mount, faulty / worn front control arm bushing. First step - is to park the vehicle on a level surface - then bounce the rear end up and down by hand to better determine the source of the noise.
Try the 'How-To-Guides' feature on the AutoMD website for steps to inpect and diagnose the suspension for wear and noises.

Check the many on-line auto parts sources, such as; www.autopartswarehouse, www.carpartswarehouse.com, or www.rockauto.com for the replacement parts.

Sounds like steering-rod ends ,ball-joints of the upper and lower suspension arms.Place the vehicle on JACK-STANDS remove the wheels and using a heavy bar place it between the ball-joint and the strut-rod and pull up on it looking for movement in the joint.If it is very worn it will move a lot.Do the same thing with the uppers.Another way to do it is to jack the hub slightly only looking closely at the ball-joint for excessive movement .For the tie-rod ends,get someone to shake the steering side to side while looking closely at the ends to see if there's excassive movement.I have dodge ram too and i replaced them myself some 6yrs ago.Finding the big socket to remove the upper and lower ball-joints was difficult.I recommend a repair manual before attempting to do it yourself.Be sure to get all the tools before hand.Haynes repair manual from Advance Auto.

Ignition Switch
Removal & Installation

The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) system must be disarmed before removing any components in the area of the air bag system. Failure to do so may cause accidental deployment of the air bag, resulting in unnecessary SIR system repairs and/or personal injury.
Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable from the battery.
Allow the SIR system capacitor to discharge for at least 2 minutes, before performing any removal procedures. The air bag system is now disabled.
Remove the key cylinder (ignition lock).
Using a No. 10 Torx® tamper proof bit, remove the ignition switch mounting screw.
Depress the ignition switch retaining tab and carefully pry the ignition switch from the steering column.
Disconnect the electrical connectors from the ignition switch and remove the switch from the vehicle.

To install:

Be sure the ignition switch is in the RUN position and the actuator shaft in the ignition lock housing is in the RUN position.
Reconnect the electrical connectors to the ignition switch.
Carefully install the ignition switch, making sure the ignition switch snaps over the retaining tabs.
Install and tighten the ignition switch mounting screw.
Install the key cylinder (ignition lock). Complete the installation by reversing the removal procedures.
Reconnect the negative battery cable.
Check switch operation.
For the pictures, see this http://www.autozone.com/.../...rGuideContent.jsp

The system has to be bled by turning the steering from side to side 40 times without hitting the stops.Refer to Chilton repair manual 20404 from advance auto .I don't know if you removed the power steering.It might make a difference.I have a similiar problem with my Ram .

first is it a dauly and what is the air press that you are setting the tires at.second was a two wheel alignment done or a four wheel not that there is anyajustments on the rear but just to see that the rear is tracking straight.third how good is your alignmrnt man.and last does it do this all the time or only when pulling a load

I don't know if it's any different on the 4wd than the two wheel drive but on the 2wd : Place the vehicle safely on jack stands don't ever trust a jack alone even heavy floor jacks can come down .Now ,after removing the wheel remove the pin from the castle nut and unsrew the castle nut .Also unbolt the caliper adapter with the caliper attached and hang it out of the way with a strong wire hook .NO NEED TO DISCONNECT THE CALIPERS. Now remove the castle nut and the washer ,pull the hub off and the end bearing will come out .The inside seal has to be pried out to get at the inside bearing.If you have a pressing tool you can press out the bearing cups yourself and press in the new ones .Or take both hubs to Napa tool shop or other to have the cups replaced.Replace old seal with new one ,pack new berings with high melting point disk brake grease .Replace hub on the axle ,install bearing then the heavy washer with the little tongue in the groove srew on the castle nut and tighten it 30 to 40 ft lbs to pre load the bearing while turning the hub,stop rotation loosen nut completely ,tighten nut finger tight and install the lock nut .Use a new cotter pin.

Several possibilities; faulty / worn strut mount (upper or lower), faulty / worn suspension bushing, or faulty wheel / hub bearing. First step - raise the rear end (support with jack stands) and then inspect the strut mount and rear suspension and control arm bushings.

Try the 'How-To-Guides' feature on the AutoMD website for the specific steps and details to inspect the rear suspension and struts for wear.

The flashing light on your car is telling there is a problem. On some vehicles require a OBD2 code scanner for the diagnosis. Once you know the code, you can most likely repair it yourself. There are fairly easy procedures that most people are capable of repairing.
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Several possibilities; faulty / loose strut mount, faulty / worn suspension bushing, faulty / worn wheel bearing. You did not provide much in the way of details; what speeds does the sound occur? What mileage is on the vehicle? Is the sound from the left or right front?
Without more details about the conditions - it is difficult to offer more information to help resolve the problem.

Was this noise there before you did the struts?

Rotate the front tires to the rear and road test it and see if wobble is gone. Also, have you confirmed that the front drive axle universal joints are not junk like they usually are after 10 years?