Clean the DPF;
Under normal operating conditions, you don’t need to do anything. However, if you do a lot of in-city driving at lower speeds or extended idling, your engine may not be working hard enough for the self-cleaning process for the diesel particulate filter (DPF) to take place (we’re talking about hours of idling, not just minutes). If this happens, particulate matter will accumulate within the filter. If it reaches an 80% level, you will see an alert in the information center of your truck’s overhead console. This is not dangerous, but it does tell you that the engine needs to be given a little more “exercise” which will correct the situation.

To start the self-cleaning process, all you have to do is drive your truck at 50 mph or so for a short while. Typically, about 45 minutes is all it takes for the system to clean itself, and a message in the overhead console will tell you when the self-cleaning is completed.

Here are the codes for the related TSBs;

P1451 - Diesel Particulate Filter System Performance.
P2463 - Diesel Particulate Filter - Soot Accumulation.
P242F - Diesel Particulate Filter Restriction - Ash Accumulation.

Next TSB,
P0101 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Rationality
P0128 - Thermostat Rationality
P061A - ETC Level 2 Torque Performance.
U1421 - Impausible Ignition Key Off Time Received

Next TSB's Code might be P2262 which is Turbocharger Boost Pressure Not Detected - Mechanical.
This happens when soot covers turbo fins and inside the housing.
All new turbos already come with the cleaning port. The cleaning process is done after engine is warmed up to 1250 F and then, shot down, the cleaning fluid can get attached to the port unside down, start engine, rev up, squize the juice inside the turbo. This process has to get done 4 times. After that, it should be clean.

The last TSB is the one that requires an Update Kit 10138-UPD.

Also, check the fuel filters - be sure that they are the correct micron (filter media size) rating. In Service bulletins put out by Cummins they state (for the 6.7L engine) to never use a filter less than 10 microns

There are so many codes. Why couldn't you post the code number please?

The purge valve is located under the hood on the front left side, left of radiator cap - where the fender meets the top cross bar. The purge valve looks like a cup with a cap, with two hoses one on the side going towards the back of the van the other going downwards

First step - check the engine oil level and refill as necessary. If the ticking sound is still present - in the same area, there are several possibilities; valve train wear, lifter wear, fuel injector wear. As the next step - use a mechanics stethoscope to help pinpoint the source of the ticking sound.
Does the ticking sound change or stay conastant with engine speeds?

Switch the #8 ignition coil with another cylinder and see if the misfiore stays with the same cylinder or if it moves to the other cylinder. Replace the coil if the misfire moves. Replace / check the injector and wiring to the injector and the injector pulse (use a noid light) if the misfire remains at the same cylinder.

If this is 4wd then no there is no chance. if 2wd maybe.

There is an oil pan gasket for the 2.0L engine; here are just two of available aftermarket models and part numbers; Fel-Pro part # OS30782, and Victor Reinz part # OS32332. The oil pan gasket will cost from around $15.00 to around $21.00 for this engine.
Sources; www.rockauto.com, www.autopartswarehouse.com, www.partsgeek.com - among others.

Interesting, the various Dodge and Chrysler parts sources also list the oil pan gasket as OEM (original) part for the 2.0L engine. Try these sources; www.chrysler-partscenter.com, or www.mopar.com/dodge/caliber/2007 for the oil pan gasket part number.

There is a part # for the oil pan gasket listed in the Dodge parts website. Part # 5189838AA is called oil pan gasket. When I look up the transmission pan gasket the same part # is listed for that also. All data lists the part # also and below the # it says "use gasket sealer". So, the part # 5189838AA is for a tube of sealer if you ordered it through Chrysler which nobody would because it costs $25.00 as compared to about $7 in the auto parts store. The shop did the right thing.

It could be the drive belt or maybe bearings in one of the components: water pump,Alt. the belt tensioner could also make a noise.or the idler wheel.Take of the belt and spin the idler wheel by hand and the belt tensioner see if either feels rough or make a noise alone.Try to put a little lub. if possible.Or replace them they are probably lubricated at the factory and sealed.On Dodge the belt tensioner bolt has a tendency to break, so it may not be a bad idea to change it at this point.If you don't know when last the belt was replaced,replace it or check the pointer on the belt-tensioner to see if it lines up with the indicator.Which means that it has reached it's limit stretch.If none of this stops the noise then it must be one components I mentioned earlier.

Need to check the blend door actuator

Disconnect the push-rod temporarily and pull the lever towards the inside of the vehicle.If it gets hotter it's the actuator or the control on the dash.If youpush it towards the bulk-head you will get cold air if the a/c is on.If i uderstand what the actuator is.On my 2001 Ram it's behind the glove-box.I now operate mine manually because it broke yrs. ago. It's probably aan expensive item to fix.

No. Your fans couldn't care less if you are leaking Freon or if your sisters kid is in the back seat screaming his head off. You more likely have a relay problem. If you unplug the wires from your coolant sensor, the fans should kick on. If they do, you have a bad coolant sensor. If not, you will need to check your relays. I'm not sure if they are fused or not, but tend to believe that they are not. I would check anyway. You will need to unplug the wiring at the fan and check to see if you have power to the fan. If you do and they are still not running, you will have to change the fan itself.

Are you confusing coolant with freon?

P0300 is the code on my OBD tool The truck won't start. But when it runs it runs fine for however long, then all of a sudden it won't start, replaced the ign coil and eng module

I have a Dodge Ram 2001 and when the computer failed, yrs ago this is, it would start fine but refused to move from where it was.Everytime I tried to accelerate it died.I towed it to Bob Wilson dodge and they found the PCM was bad.Did you notice if any lights are flashing on the dash?I think your model gives codes on the dash.

On the Dodge ram 2001 the PCM sets the idle speed by controlling the IAC motor,if everything else is functioning as it should.I'll assume that the 1999 is fuel injection too.The idle on these vehicles is not manually adjustable.

The PCM uses the camshaft sensor (inside distributor) and the crankshaft sensor to properly synchronize fuel injection.

If you are doing the job yourself it could be that youre not getting something quite correct.Some times it happens that when working on one thing one can inadvertantly knock a wire or some component and move it without being aware of it .It has happened to me before.I would go over everything, shake the grounds, check to see if any connectors are loose.Is the PCM PRE FLASHED.