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Dodge brakes repair questions and answers

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  • newpryce
    newpryce - 2008 Dodge Ram 1500 - Brakes - 7/30/2013
    Brake controller install
    How would I go about figuring out if my 08 ram only needs a brake controller. It has the 7 pin plug in the bumper. Some stuff says if the plug is the all i need is the controller and the special plug from the controller to the blue plug under the dash. Others says ...
     
    • John's Auto Repair
      7/18/2013 John's Auto Repair
      Huh?
      John's Auto Repair
      7/18/2013 newpryce
      I was asking how to know if the wiring for trailer brakes were hooked up or if the wiring was just there. The brake controllers I have looked at the install instruction if installed on my make and year that everything is wired up just plug and go.. But places like shops say that the wiring is just there and not hooked up.
    • frankiedonnn
      7/30/2013 frankiedonnn
      I suppose it wouldn't do any harm to plug the trailer in and see if the lights operate.Or use a multimeter and check for voltage.But what would it take away from the manufacturers if they had connected them? I ponder.
  • jimkellerman
    jimkellerman - 1980 Dodge B300 - Brakes - 7/27/2013
    I am completing my rear brake job, on a 1977 F 30 Sportsman van motorhome, it is a brougham. Concerning the hub nut.
    I am not sure what the torque specs are for the inner and outer nut. Jim- a general mechanic.
     
    • Jimm
      7/27/2013 Jimm
      Rotate wheel and tighten locknut until drag is felt at wheel. Back off 1/6 turn to zero or just
      perceptible endplay. Install lock washer and jambnut. Without turning locknut, tighten jambnut
      to 35-65 ft-lbs/41-88 Nm. Bend tabs of lock washer over both locknut and jambnut.
  • brienboone
    brienboone - 2002 Dodge Dakota - Brakes - 7/18/2013
    When turning on right turn signal both right and left blink for a couple seconds then the left will stop ,
    left brake won,t come on then it will these symtoms come and go
     
    • John's Auto Repair
      7/18/2013 John's Auto Repair
      Sounds like you have a bad ground to one of the rear bulb sockets. Also it could be that right rear
      bulb is shorted internally since one filament is for parking lights and the other is for brake
      light.
  • mitz58
    mitz58 - 2002 Dodge Intrepid - Brakes - 7/4/2013
    Is there a fuse for anti lock brakes
    abs light comes on and when putting on brakes knocking noise and can feel it in petal
     
    • Jimm
      7/4/2013 Jimm
      ABS stands for anti-lock braking system. As a first step - check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder - refill as necessary.
      A fault in the system is causing the light to go on, most likely is due to the sensors on the wheel hubs are dirty; usually metallic dust accumulates on them. These may need to be cleaned, however it may be something more serious - such as faulty wiring or connection to one of the sensors, or a faulty ABS modulator.
      Check the many on-line auto parts sources, such as; www.partsgeek.com, www.carpartswarehouse.com, or www.rockauto.com for the replacement parts. For example, they (RockAuto) list the ABS sensor from around $52.00 each for your vehicle.
  • frankiedonnn
    frankiedonnn - 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Van - Brakes - 6/30/2013
    Installed new calipers, master cylinder, hoses and rotors resurfaced. Brakes are still overheating
    Front brakes were dragging and overheating causing lost of power. Installed new calipers, hoses, master cylinder and had rotors resurfaced. Vehicle is driving fine but front brakes are still overheating. Caliper pistons are not retracting when pedal released. ...
     
    • HouseCallAuto
      3/4/2013 HouseCallAuto
      OK, Try this. Unbolt the master cyl leaving all lines attached and install a shim washer between the brake booster and master just under the 2 ears of the mounting. Now see if the problem is gone, and if it is, remove the master and see if there is a pushrod that is adjustable in there. If it is adjustable, shorten it about the thickness of the shim washers.
      HouseCallAuto
      3/5/2013 frankiedonnn
      thank you for the suggession . it so happens that i already adjusted the push rod .but i also think that if it was the push rod or the booster binding that the callipers would retract when the master cyl is removed judging from what i learned about the comination valve in haynes repair manual i suspect it could be that .but tryin to get confirmation before buying one .it sounds like you also read the manual thanks again.
      HouseCallAuto
      3/5/2013 HouseCallAuto
      I agree, that if the master is moved out some and the problem still happens then the cause is something else inbetween the master and calipers causing residual line pressure. In this case it cannot be the abs unit because you only have RWABS, so that leaves only the combination valve or the front hoses .
      HouseCallAuto
      3/5/2013 frankiedonnn
      actually the hoses are new as well ,so i will change the combination valve.Does the van in the foto mean that you are a certified tech. Cause I feel A lot more confident knowing it. Thanks for the input.
    • frankiedonnn
      3/8/2013 frankiedonnn
      Housecallauto I was hoping for comfirmation about the combination valve before I buy it .Bleeding the rear brakes seem to have an affect on the callipers as they got tighter.I'm only throw in ideas to clear my own thinking so I can illiminate things from my mind.In the end youre the expert. Waiting your response.
    • HouseCallAuto
      3/17/2013 HouseCallAuto
      Sorry for the delay frankiedon, the email notification system for AutoMD is not working so I do not know when a question I answered has been updated unless I manually go back and check on my own. Yes, I have been a certified mechanic for the past 30 years. Fixing cars is all I do and is all I have ever done since I am 18. I do not think the combination valve will be the cause. I believe the brake booster is the cause. But before replacing anything take a closer look at the functioning of the master and booster. The master is new so that can't be the cause. The booster diaphragm can stick and keep residual pressure upon the master cylinder and cause the drag. Something I might try under the circumstances you have detailed is removing the vacuum source from the booster and drive it with no power assist and see if the brakes stay ok and if it does seem "fixed" with no vacuum assist, buy a new booster and check valve. Obviously driving with no power assist will be uncomfortable, but do it just long enough to see the problem re-occur or resolve.
      HouseCallAuto
      4/7/2013 frankiedonnn
      HouseCallAuto I read your last diagnosis about the brake booster , only I had already ordered the combination valve .The old valve had started leaking fluid at the little pin that pops up and it may have been letting in air too. I have already installed the new one and bled the whole system with a vacuum pump .But I can't test drive it yet because the battery is now bad too.It's nearly five years old so I can't complain. Oh, When I turn the front wheels by hand the pads are still rubbin
      HouseCallAuto
      4/12/2013 frankiedonnn
      I finally got a new battery and I drove around the neighbourhood with the brake booster disconnected .The van did seem to drive easier.This morning I drove a long way and it seemed as if it was a little slow plus when i returned home the wheels were very hot. When I reconnected the vacuum hose though it continued to run easy. Is it possible that the check valve alone could be causing the problem? And another thing is spinning the wheel by hand any good indication of weather or not the brakes
      HouseCallAuto
      4/12/2013 frankiedonnn
      are dragging , because the wheels still don't spin very freely by hand.OH, and I need to know the correct way to adjust the booster pushrod.
      HouseCallAuto
      6/25/2013 howieh
      were the front calipers changed and if not when you replaced the pads did you grease the slide pins
    • HouseCallAuto
      4/12/2013 HouseCallAuto
      I cannot find a procedure for adjusting the pushrod, but, basic common sense would tell me that there should be no pressure applied to the pushrod when the master cylinder is bolted to the booster. In other words, the pushrod should touch the piston of the master but should not exert any pressure on it. The master cylinder piston should not be moved inward at all by the pushrod as the master is tightened down. You will have to see if you can determine just the right length with trial and error, or any other means. Even one millimeter of inward movement on the master cyinder piston will begin to build pressure.
      HouseCallAuto
      4/12/2013 HouseCallAuto
      It is normal for the front wheels to have some drag when turned by hand off the ground. They will not spin freely when you spin and let go.
      HouseCallAuto
      4/13/2013 frankiedonnn
      I appreciate your response .It will be some time before I can get the brake booster.Even if it wasn't necessary to replace all the parts that I did I guess I can certainly say that I learnt a lot about Dodge vans.Thank you for your knowledge and experience.
      HouseCallAuto
      4/21/2013 frankiedonnn
      Housecallauto:Since I made my last responce I've been driving the van and I noticed something peculiar.After driving for a while and then stopping the brake pedal pushes my foot back real hard.I'm most interested to know what you make of that.
    • howieh
      4/29/2013 howieh
      by any chance did you grease the slids for the caliper and is it the inside pad or the outside pad that is grabing
      howieh
      5/18/2013 frankiedonnn
      Howieh: Sorry i did'nt see your comment before.The calipers are new fully loaded so I did'nt do anything but install them.I'm waiting to buy a new brake-booster as diagnosed by Housecallauto but in the meantime I feel that the wheel bearings could be part of the equation although they have been replaced since I owned the van few yrs. ago.
      howieh
      6/25/2013 howieh
      the only question I have is if it was the brake booster when you disconnect the master from the booster the brakes would release.here's what Im thinking you installed new calipers new pads but did you check and make sure the pads fit in the slides with ease because if not the pad can be binding and your spending all this money for nothing
      howieh
      6/25/2013 howieh
      try this its easy and quick take off the left front wheel have someone step and release the brakes there's is ahole on the top of the caliper with a light look in the hole you will see the piston if it moves out when the brakes are applied it should move back in when they are released this movement is very little but you can see itand let me know what you see
    • frankiedonnn
      6/24/2013 frankiedonnn
      housecallauto: I finally got the new brake booster and installed it this morning , Monday.Unfortunately the brakes are still gettig way too hot.What I think is peculiar is that the right side calliper is the main culprit ,it gets a lot hotter than the left one .I hoping you might have an idea about that.It gets so hot that the greese in the bearing starts to bubble,and its impossible to turn the wheel by hand or even touch it.Another question is: Is the booster push-rod adjusted at the factory ready to install .I don't want to touch it unless its necessary .When I pushed the master cylinder on it went up flush and it appeared to be fine.I really would rather have taken it to the shop but it could'nt be helped.Awaiting your reply soon ,Thank you.
    • HouseCallAuto
      6/24/2013 HouseCallAuto
      If you have only the right side caliper dragging then you have to just focus on the right side.
      You replaced the brake hoses on both sides so that can't be an issue unless the hose is kinked or crushed.
      The caliper is mounted to the knuckle with two caliper bolts. Remove the pads and mount the caliper without pads and confirm that the caliper can slide in and out without a lot of force to make it move. Make sure the pads are installed correctly, some trucks (not sure about this van) have one edge of the pad is different than the other (visually different - if they look the same then skip this) One edge of the pad faces upward and the other pad with its matching edge faces upward and the other two edges of the pad face downward and match.
      The caliper piston should retract without excessive pressure needing to be applied. If any question, replace the caliper, they will usually warranty it if you return it to them.
      HouseCallAuto
      6/24/2013 HouseCallAuto
      The pushrod is pre-adjusted so no worry.
      HouseCallAuto
      6/24/2013 frankiedonnn
      Housecallauto: Thanks for your quick response and I will follow those directions and get back to you. Thanks.
    • howieh
      6/25/2013 howieh
      when did this start all of a sudden or has it been doing this for a wile
      howieh
      6/25/2013 frankiedonnn
      housecallauto: I removed the pads and the caliper is sliding fine. The rotor has a wobble I suppose all the overheating did not do it any good but I not sure that would directly cause the problem.I think the problem is that the pistons are not retracting when the brake pedal is released.Because even when the vehicle is not driven and everything is totally cold the caliper is still clinching tight.It should be possible to turn the wheel by hand.I don't mean to jump ahead of you but I can't help
      howieh
      6/25/2013 frankiedonnn
      wondering if the RWAL brakes has any thing at all to do with this. Because for a while before receiving the new power booster I drove the van and the overheating problem seem to have gotten better.Then I removed the rear hubs and cleaned and adjusted the rear brakes,and after that the front brakes started up again.The right front caliper was always tighter than the left.I hope you can see something that I can't because I really need to get it fixed so I can make up some of the money I spent on i
      howieh
      6/25/2013 frankiedonnn
      Howei: I appreciate your response and the history of this problem is so long that I can only ask you to read it right from the beginning for yourself.I have changed almost everything on the front brakes.
    • HouseCallAuto
      6/25/2013 HouseCallAuto
      When the caliper is tight and the wheel is hard to turn, crack open the bleeder screw and see if the caliper releases and if it does I suspect a defective brake hose. I know you replaced it already. Take the hose out completely and see if you can blow compressed air through it. If there is a restriction check and see if there is a place where the factory has a steel bracket folded / crimped on the rubber part of the hose where it acts as a hose stay. Use a suitable tool and unbend the bracket some to relieve pressure on the hose. I have had an occasion where a new brake hose had a restriction for this reason. Don't damage the hose, just confirm that there is no way that the bracket is crimped too tightly. Unbend it a mm or two and then check the air flow thriough it. According to a picture of the right front brake hose it does have a metal crimped hose stay.
      HouseCallAuto
      6/25/2013 frankiedonnn
      housecallauto: Yes the brake hose does have a crimp metal bracket to bolt it to the chassis.And I will certainly try that.Oh, by the way the brake pads are the same on both ends.I forgot to mention that in my last report. Thank you.
      HouseCallAuto
      6/26/2013 frankiedonnn
      housecallauto: 6/26/13 I took the hose off blew the air line through it and thats clear.I also released the crimp a little anyway, just enough that the hose moves freely.I bled the caliper and it does'nt seem to be any different. I did some research recently on Kelsey Hayes calipers, on line,and learned that the pad to rotor clearance should be .005 light contact with the disc. It's impossible to even get .004 feeler gauge between the pads and the disk. I worry about having to drive it each t
      HouseCallAuto
      6/26/2013 frankiedonnn
      time to see if it's correct,because that only damages the rotors and the new parts. Another thing is : When I turn the rotors by hand I can hear a noise coming from the other side of the system like if something is being pushed like a light clunk if thats the right word to use.I'm looking forward to hear what you think about all of this.Thanks.
      HouseCallAuto
      6/26/2013 HouseCallAuto
      Did you look at it when the rotor was too tight to turn easily? And what happened when you opened the bleeder, did the caliper burp fluid and release any?
    • HouseCallAuto
      6/26/2013 HouseCallAuto
      Does the truck drift to the right side with your foot off the brake? What evidence can you confirm that says the right side is dragging? Are the pads wearing evenly from left side to right side? Is there any evidence of the rotor overheating like the metal appearing a different color? Can you compare the temperature from left to right by using an infra-red thermometer (looks like a plastic gun and reads the temperature without disassembly very quickly). I really need to know what happens when the truck has been driven and you are experiencing the brakes dragging if you crack open the bleeder does the rotor spin free instantly? Read the actual temperature from side to side if you can borrow a temp reader. If you crack open the bleeder and the caliper appears to "relax" and the rotor now spins, immediately after that step on the brake and see if you can see it drag again without having to drive it. If they drag you have to replace the master cylinder again. The MC has to be bench bled before installing.
      HouseCallAuto
      6/27/2013 frankiedonnn
      housecallauto: The right side gets so hot that the grease from the bearing melts and bubbles and it's impossible to touch it.Plus when it's hot it's impossible to turn the wheel by hand,And you can smell the pads burning.When i open the bleeder it makes no difference.I'll try it again this time stepping on the brake.I'll get the temperature difference.I did bench bleed this master-cyl.I have a ryobi thermometer like that but never thought of using that . I had the caliper off and pushed the pist
      HouseCallAuto
      6/27/2013 frankiedonnn
      ons back with a c-clamp and the move fine.
    • HouseCallAuto
      6/27/2013 HouseCallAuto
      IF YOU OPEN THE CALIPER BLEED SCREW AND NO CHANGE then you have a sticking caliper because any other cause would make the caliper release. You open the bleed screw and the pressure being exerted on the caliper piston by the brake fluid goes to -0- and the only thing that could hold the caliper tight would be a frozen piston in the caliper or the slide pins are frozen. You said the slide pins were ok because the caliper was able to slide easily with no pads installed, so that leaves only the caliper as a cause. Replace the caliper. If that don't solve it then I don't have any answers and you should arrange an exorcism :-)
      HouseCallAuto
      7/3/2013 frankiedonnn
      the pedal is completely released it locks up again.Every time it seems like I'm onto it something different happens,and I'm back to drawing board.Something is activating the calipers .
    • howieh
      6/30/2013 howieh
      try this its easy and quick take off the left front wheel have someone step and release the brakes there's is ahole on the top of the caliper with a light look in the hole you will see the piston if it moves out when the brakes are applied it should move back in when they are released this movement is very little but you can see itand let me know
      howieh
      7/3/2013 frankiedonnn
      Hello howieh: Yes the piston is moving slight like you say ,i have been checking it for myself from the drivers seat with the weel off and turned all the way to the right. Actually, today july 03 I noticed something that I did'nt pay a lot of attention to before.I freed-up the rotor and spun both of them by hand and I noticed that the right side bearing is making a wurring noise while the left is spinning very quiet by comparison.So I positive that the bearing is bad and must be contributing to
      howieh
      7/3/2013 frankiedonnn
      the problem .I'm just not sure if it's causing the problem or if something else is causing the problem and the over heating damaged the rotor and the bearing .But which ever it is I can't replace it right now. I would still like to hear any thoughts you have on it ,Thanks for responding.
      howieh
      7/3/2013 HouseCallAuto
      Yes it is a bad bearing and that is why your grease is melting. I am surprised that you missed that with all the times you had the truck apart and spun the rotor. That is the answer and that was the answer all along.
      howieh
      7/3/2013 frankiedonnn
      Well,I'm not an expert i'm only trying to help myself that's why I'm asking for help from the experts.But since I posted the bearing problem something else came up: I have been bleeding the system all over again and I find that when I bleed the rear brakes the front calipers seem to be responding to that by locking up even tighter than before.Also,when I pedal bleed the front brakes the rotors spin very freely for a few secs. while my assistant is gradually releasing the pedal but when the pedal
      howieh
      7/3/2013 frankiedonnn
      is completely released it locks up again.Something peculiar is going on .
      howieh
      7/4/2013 HouseCallAuto
      There comes atime when add'l advice is unproductive. We have reached that moment. Replace the bad bearing or bearings, bleed the 4 wheels and see what you have as a result when you drive it. Then we can start over after you report what is happening. We will call it the beginning again.
  • rainman7778
    rainman7778 - 2001 Dodge Dakota - Brakes - 6/22/2013
    2 estimates differ. One is brake line and the other is brake rotor. one is tie rod and the other is sway bar
    I don't know which estimate to choose. The cost is the same and the work is in the same vicinity but different replacement parts.
     
    • Jimm
      6/22/2013 Jimm
      Choose the estimate that will provide the correct repair for the problems / issues with your vehicle. What exactly is the problem or issue that needs fixing?
  • kprnstr2
    kprnstr2 - 2010 Dodge Grand Caravan - Brakes - 6/14/2013
    My driver side rear brake caliper is leaking brake fluid is the only solution to fix the problem replace the caliper?
    70000 miles and just replaced all 4 brake pads today and noticed the leak when I was pushing the piston on the caliper back in.
     
    • CVO
      6/14/2013 CVO
      Is the fluid is leaking through the piston seal ? If it leaked, it's bad, replace the caliper and perform the brake bleeding in all four.
  • djc2135
    djc2135 - 1997 Dodge Neon - Brakes - 6/12/2013
    The back passenger wheel has locked up as if the parking brake is on and i cannot get the brake drum off.
    I tried letting a little brake fluid out of the bleeder valve to lower the pressure in the drum but, this had no effect. I tried to bang the drum with a hammer to loosen it but it will not come off.
     
    • Mike
      6/12/2013 Mike
      Have you tried removing the plug and backing off the adjuster?
    • HouseCallAuto
      6/12/2013 HouseCallAuto
      Cut off the heads of the brake shoe pins that are visible at the rear of the backing plate, this will help but it will still suck a little. If the parking brake cable is stuck that will do it also or if the hub bearing is frozen that will contribute also. There are no rules in this situation just so you know. It is not written in any book what to do.
  • redwolf1201
    redwolf1201 - 1992 Dodge W250 - Brakes - 5/20/2013
    Why cant i bleed my brakes
    there is a what looks like a little vacume pump on the driverside inside fender it has wires that hook to it and a hose that hooks to the booster what is this part and do i need it.
     
    • Jimm
      6/10/2013 Jimm
      This may be the ABS (anti-lock brake) modulator - part of the ABS system, and not directly related to the brake bleed problem.

      Need more information about the brake bleed problem. Are you having trouble getting the caliper bleeder screw loose? What exactly is the issue you are having?
  • johabli
    johabli - 1989 Dodge Spirit - Brakes - 6/7/2013
    My front brakes, both sides, are dragging.
    They are not sounding metal to metal, nor are they squealing but I am getting a burnt clutch smell. There is no pulling to either side.
     
    • John's Auto Repair
      Several possibilities there. One the calipers or brake hoses could be defective. Secondly the brake switch above the brake pedal could be misadjusted causing the pedal to be partially depressed. The
      second thing I've seen happen on several different manufacturers.
  • Bmking93
    Bmking93 - 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 - Brakes - 5/19/2013
    My abs and parking break light stay on when I start my truck and they don't shut off.
    Autozone checked for codes but none came up. The lights originally came on while I was driving down the high way
     
    • frankiedonnn
      5/19/2013 frankiedonnn
      The parking break light could mean that the brakes are failing.Check all the wheels on the inside and see if fluid is dripping anywhere and check the master cyl. for low level.Press the brake-pedal hard and see if it goes down to the floor,which would mean it's leaking somewhere.Check the combination valve for leak around the pin thats covered with a little rubber cap.On my 2001 Ram the combination valve is under the battery on the left chassis.Use a bright light to be sure.
  • r.2drunge
    r.2drunge - 2010 Dodge Grand Caravan - Brakes - 5/18/2013
    Premature rear brake failure
     
    • Jimm
      5/11/2013 Jimm
      OK - need more information. Is there any question or issue regarding the brake failure?
    • frankiedonnn
      5/18/2013 frankiedonnn
      Yes! more info is definitely a good idea! Thank you.
  • blue_knight_texas
    blue_knight_texas - 1992 Dodge Dakota - Brakes - 5/12/2013
    How to remove a hydraulic control valve assembly from the back of my truck?
    miles 228183. Have taken off driver front and rear tries. Have tried to bleed back brakes no brakes fluild comes out . The front brakes do bleed. Have tried to bleed hydraulic control valve assembly ,but no fluild comes out. Their is no brake or ABS light that come ...
     
    0 answer
  • craig.johnson1
    craig.johnson1 - 2000 Dodge Dakota - Brakes - 5/9/2013
    Does any one make an oversize caliper bolt ? Mine striped out
     
    • jdl
      5/9/2013 jdl
      I was just looking at napaonline partsbook. They have an oversized caliper housing bolt--front. Part # NOE 6751539. I believe it is self tapping.
    • autoworldmd
      5/9/2013 autoworldmd
      DO NOT USE A SELF TAPPING BOLT IN THIS APPLICATION, I DONT CARE WHO MAKES IT!!!! The correct way to repair this is to replace the knuckle, however, it can be repaired by using a heli coil. These bolts are oddball sizes, like9mm and 11mm, but most quality auto parts stores will carry these helicoil kits. Once the helicoil is done, use a new standard size caliper bolt.
      autoworldmd
      5/9/2013 craig.johnson1
      I work at a fastner co. Can I use a socket shoulder bolt and have it machined to fit ? then tap the threads in the knuckle to 3/8-16.
      autoworldmd
      5/9/2013 HouseCallAuto
      I would be comfortable with the knuckle tapped to the next largest size, however, I will assume that the bolt you use will have the same diameter and length as the original where it goes through the bushing. Sounds like you are going to use a custom made bolt.
      autoworldmd
      5/9/2013 craig.johnson1
      Thanks for help; craig
    • Jimm
      5/9/2013 Jimm
      Dorman part # 13894 Length: 2-3/16" - this is an oversize caliper pin. Check with the many on-line auto parts sources, such as; www.autopartswarehouse.com or www.rockauto.com. They (RockAuto) list the Dorman caliper bolt from around $12.50 (set of two) for your vehicle.
      Jimm
      5/9/2013 craig.johnson1
      Thanks for your help; craig
  • vrodrex
    vrodrex - 2008 Dodge Charger - Brakes - 5/5/2013
    2008 Charger SE. ABS light is on, traction control light on, ESP light is on. ABS and cruise control not functioning,
    60,000 miles. No codes showing on code reader. Can not turn warning lights off, disconnecting battery did not change anything.
     
    0 answer