The parking break light could mean that the brakes are failing.Check all the wheels on the inside and see if fluid is dripping anywhere and check the master cyl. for low level.Press the brake-pedal hard and see if it goes down to the floor,which would mean it's leaking somewhere.Check the combination valve for leak around the pin thats covered with a little rubber cap.On my 2001 Ram the combination valve is under the battery on the left chassis.Use a bright light to be sure.

OK - need more information. Is there any question or issue regarding the brake failure?

Yes! more info is definitely a good idea! Thank you.

I was just looking at napaonline partsbook. They have an oversized caliper housing bolt--front. Part # NOE 6751539. I believe it is self tapping.

DO NOT USE A SELF TAPPING BOLT IN THIS APPLICATION, I DONT CARE WHO MAKES IT!!!! The correct way to repair this is to replace the knuckle, however, it can be repaired by using a heli coil. These bolts are oddball sizes, like9mm and 11mm, but most quality auto parts stores will carry these helicoil kits. Once the helicoil is done, use a new standard size caliper bolt.

Dorman part # 13894 Length: 2-3/16" - this is an oversize caliper pin. Check with the many on-line auto parts sources, such as; www.autopartswarehouse.com or www.rockauto.com. They (RockAuto) list the Dorman caliper bolt from around $12.50 (set of two) for your vehicle.

OK, Try this. Unbolt the master cyl leaving all lines attached and install a shim washer between the brake booster and master just under the 2 ears of the mounting. Now see if the problem is gone, and if it is, remove the master and see if there is a pushrod that is adjustable in there. If it is adjustable, shorten it about the thickness of the shim washers.

Housecallauto I was hoping for comfirmation about the combination valve before I buy it .Bleeding the rear brakes seem to have an affect on the callipers as they got tighter.I'm only throw in ideas to clear my own thinking so I can illiminate things from my mind.In the end youre the expert. Waiting your response.

Sorry for the delay frankiedon, the email notification system for AutoMD is not working so I do not know when a question I answered has been updated unless I manually go back and check on my own. Yes, I have been a certified mechanic for the past 30 years. Fixing cars is all I do and is all I have ever done since I am 18. I do not think the combination valve will be the cause. I believe the brake booster is the cause. But before replacing anything take a closer look at the functioning of the master and booster. The master is new so that can't be the cause. The booster diaphragm can stick and keep residual pressure upon the master cylinder and cause the drag. Something I might try under the circumstances you have detailed is removing the vacuum source from the booster and drive it with no power assist and see if the brakes stay ok and if it does seem "fixed" with no vacuum assist, buy a new booster and check valve. Obviously driving with no power assist will be uncomfortable, but do it just long enough to see the problem re-occur or resolve.

I cannot find a procedure for adjusting the pushrod, but, basic common sense would tell me that there should be no pressure applied to the pushrod when the master cylinder is bolted to the booster. In other words, the pushrod should touch the piston of the master but should not exert any pressure on it. The master cylinder piston should not be moved inward at all by the pushrod as the master is tightened down. You will have to see if you can determine just the right length with trial and error, or any other means. Even one millimeter of inward movement on the master cyinder piston will begin to build pressure.

by any chance did you grease the slids for the caliper and is it the inside pad or the outside pad that is grabing

You may have a faulty ground? Check the bulb socket for for faulty ground.

Check the recall listings for your vehicle at the AutoMD website; 'Recalls and TSBs' (link is at the bottom of the page).

No there is not. Our 1999 escape just needed a new abs system. Ford would not cover it as it is not a recall.read more you can login http://www.spobd2.com/

replace the front brake pads and rotors. probability here is 100%.

check shock absorber loose or worn shock absorbers are nev er replaced especially on a used vehicle. it could also be worn ball joint

Several possibilities; warped disc brake rotors, faulty / loose wheel bearings, faulty front suspension bushings.
Check the many different on-line auto parts sources; such as - www.autopartswarehouse.com, www.partsgeek.com and www.rockauto.com for the replacement parts. For example, they (RockAuto) lists the front disc rotors from around $18.00 each for your vehicle.