Most likely the issue is due to either; worn / stretched drive belt, faulty idler pulley, or faulty / worn belt tensioner.
Try the many on-line auto parts sources; such as, www.autopartswarehouse.com or www.rockauto.com for the replacement parts.
Check the 'How-To-Guides' feature on the AutoMD website for specific steps to check the belt tensioner and to replace the drive belt.

The real issue is that the tensioner pulley is completely smooth. This is acknowledged in the following link:

http://www.youtube.com/watch


The video explains why it occurs so often and a permanent (but admittedly expensive) fix for the problem. I've dealt with this issue more times than I care to count. All the tow truck drivers I've talked to say this is actually common with minivans.

how mutch bigger

Front
Camber (Front Left & Right): -0.3 to 0.5
Caster (Front Left & Right): 1.3 to 3.3
Toe (Front Left & Right): -0.05 to 0.15
Cross Camber (Front): -0.5 to 0.5
Cross Caster (Front): -1.0 to 1.0
Total Toe (Front): -0.10 to 0.30

Rear
Camber (Rear Left & Right): -0.3 to 0.3
Toe (Rear Left & Right): -0.10 to 0.10
Total Toe (Rear): -0.20 to 0.20
Thrust Angle (Rear): -0.30 to 0.30

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Got It unlocked after taking apart the steering wheel. but I half thing I screwed something up. turns to the right fine, turning to the left feels like there's no power steering

Several possibilities; worn strut mount or bushing, worn suspension bushing, worn / faulty sway bar bushing. Reference the 'How-To-Guides' feature on the AutoMD website for the specific steps to check / inspect the front end components for excess wear.

From my experience with these minivans, replace the power steering fluid reservoir first. There is a filter inside there that becomes clogged and does not allow oil to return to the pump fast enough. The filter cannot be cleaned but the good news is the reservoir is like 20 bucks and replaced easily. try this first before anything. Refill the system or add to it using ATF+4 transmission oil.

I am guessing you are doing the timing belt? I just did a 98 stratus with the same engine and the PS bracket sucks big time. The pump bolts come off first, two of them I believe, a 15 mm bolt at the top of the pump from pump to bracket and a 13 mm bolt at the bottom rear of the pump. then, in order to get the bracket off the intakle plenum has to come off so you can get to the other two 15 mm bolts that bolt the horizontal part of the PS bracket to the cylinder head. It may be different on the Stratus and Sebring but not sure.

Jack up the engine with jack take off left moter mount 3 bolts lower the engine and it will give you enough room to take off the back bolt hope it helps!

I would need more in formation to help
1 does it do this when turning?
2 does it do this when you hit the breaks
3 get a strong freind to try and shake the wheel, left to right top to bottom, if the wheel moves in all directions it is the wheel bearing, most cars only have two per wheel, I suggest a second opinion!

Try the many on-line auto parts sources, such as; www.autopartswarehouse.com or www.rockauto.com for the replacement parts. For example, they (Rock Auto) list the power steering pump (without reservoir) from around $36.00 for your vehiicle.
You can calculate around 1 hour to 1.5 hours labor cost; from $70.00 to around $150.00 for the labor cost - plus the fluid at around $2.00 / quart.