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Chrysler engine repair questions and answers

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  • BOB B
    BOB B - 1996 Chrysler Town & Country - Engine - 9/11/2010
    How do I remove the fuile pump
    the van wouldn't start . called AAA Guy checked it out. It cranks but wont start. he gets under the the van and punds on the gas tank the van starts. said its ythe gas pump.
     
    • CVO
      9/11/2010 CVO
      Autozone.com provides the procedures, pics to drop the fuel tank. Register and login_enter fuel pump in a search box and open the view job diagram to see the pics.I hope that i answered your questions.
  • Tinker
    Tinker - 1996 Chrysler LHS - Engine - 9/10/2010
    Why do I have sporadic overheating problems
    Has new" water pump, radiator, heater core, hoses, water-neck and valve, freeze out plugs, and 50/50 pre-mix. I can run the car with and without air-conditioning on cool or VERY hot days. Engine will arbitrarily begin overheating with no warning other than ...
     
    • RC
      9/10/2010 RC
      Did you replace the thermostat?
  • dick7
    dick7 - 1995 Chrysler New Yorker - Engine - 9/10/2010
    Oil is leaking into one of my spark plug cylinders Tips on repair
     
    • RC
      9/10/2010 RC
      Have you done a compression check and how many miles are on the engine? Sounds like valve guide seals, but I would do a compression check first.
  • Tiempo
    Tiempo - 2005 Chrysler Town & Country - Engine - 9/9/2010
    Why does my van hesitate?
    We have had fuel pump, oxygen sensors, air filter changed and had a tune up. But it still misses. It rides fine doesn't stall but kind of misses. Also it seems to have lost power. Really have to push gas peddle to get it to pick up speed. It has 130k miles hoping to ...
     
    • AC130 Spectre
      9/9/2010 AC130 Spectre
      Hesitation is when your engine misfires, stumbles or lacks power when you accelerate or step on the throttle. The problem often means the air/fuel mixture is not being properly enriched or is going lean, or the ignition system is weak and is misfiring when the engine comes under load or the air/fuel mixture goes lean.
      When you step down on the accelerator and the throttle opens, the engine sucks in more air. The computer should respond by adding more fuel.
      If the engine has a speed-density type of fuel injection system (no airflow sensor), the computer uses inputs from the throttle position sensor, manifold absolute pressure sensor, air temperature sensor and engine rpm to estimate airflow and how much fuel the engine needs. NOTE: Speed-density systems are much less sensitive to vacuum leaks than EFI systems that use an airflow sensor.
      If the engine has an airflow sensor (vane airflow or mass airflow), it looks primarily at the airflow signal from the airflow sensor, but also takes into account what the throttle position sensor and MAP sensor (if equipped) are telling it. NOTE: Airflow EFI systems are very sensitive to vacuum leaks, and air leaks downstream of the airflow sensor.
      Consequently, if the inputs from any of these sensors is inaccurate or missing, the engine computer may not add enough fuel, allowing the fuel mixture to go lean causing a misfire that produces a hesitation or stumble when accelerating or opening the throttle.
      The amount of fuel added by the computer when the throttle opens may also be insufficient if the fuel injectors are dirty or fuel pressure is low. The oxygen sensors in the exhaust monitor the air/fuel mixture so the computer can adjust fuel trim as needed to maintain the proper air/fuel ratio. Fuel trim adjustments can compensate for dirty injectors and/or low fuel pressure to a certain extent, but occur too slowly to offset a throttle hesitation problem.
      Vacuum leaks will typically cause the fuel trim to run rich as the computer tries to compensate for the extra air being sucked into the engine through the leak.


      Possible Causes of Engine Hesitation or Stumble:

      Dirty fuel injectors (cleaning the injectors often fixes this).
      Bad MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor
      Bad TPS (throttle position) sensor
      Bad or dirty MAF (mass airflow) sensor
      Low fuel pressure (leaky fuel pressure regulator or weak fuel pump)
      Vacuum leaks (intake manifold, vacuum hoses, throttle body, EGR valve)
      Bad gasoline (fuel contaminated with water or too much alcohol)
      Sometimes, what feels like a hesitation is actually ignition misfire rather than lean misfire. The causes of ignition misfire may include:

      Dirty or worn spark plugs
      Bad plug wires
      Weak ignition coil
      Wet plug wires

  • narinel
    narinel - 1999 Chrysler Town & Country - Engine - 9/9/2010
    Why am I not getting any spark from the coil?
     
    • Bobby
      9/9/2010 Bobby
      could be the coil is back you need to test if the coil is getting power and signal and ground, if it is then the coil could be bad. if power is not getting to the coil then it could be something else relay possibly. if there is no signal getting to the coil the crank sensor or cam sensors could be at fault. did you check for codes with a scanner?
  • brandon
     
    • RC
      9/9/2010 RC
      Check your battery cable connections, they must be clean and tight.
  • kevin
     
  • Andrea
    Andrea - 2005 Chrysler Town & Country - Engine - 9/9/2010
    Possible cost and to find someone reputable
    exhaust leak, some mild cooland leadk from manifold, ibelieve and a growling noise, some hesitation and "popping" sound
     
    • yboy82
      9/9/2010 yboy82
      You can use the find a shop feature of AutoMD to find a shop near you ( http://www.automd.com/shops/). Just enter your address along with your ZIP code before your click the search icon. A list of shop will appear with their address, telephone #, and their labor rate per hour. If the vehicle that appeared is different from your vehicle just click change beside the vehicle on the upper left side of the page.
  • Jerry
    Jerry - 2006 Chrysler Pacifica - Engine - 9/8/2010
    How do you rest the gascap alarm.
     
    • Blackwater
      9/8/2010 Blackwater
      Reset the computer by disconnecting the negative battery cable for a couple of minutes then reconnect. This will erase the codes from the computer. If everything is okay, the CHECK ENGINE light will stay off. The codes are stored in the computer when there is a problem. Even if you fix the problem, the codes are still there until you reset the computer.
  • SINDAVIS
    SINDAVIS - 1998 Chrysler Concorde - Engine - 9/8/2010
    My car wont start sometimes. ill go to start it and it wont start and 10 mins later it will start with no problem
    it seems like its trying to turn over and just wont
     
    • RC
      9/8/2010 RC
      First, check the battery and cable connections. How old is the battery?
  • randall
     
    • Blackwater
      9/8/2010 Blackwater
      Car stalls at stoplight or when idling
      If the car runs fine while driving and cuts off ONLY when you are idling (foot completely off the gas pedal and RPM's at idle speed) then your idle air control valve my need adjusting or need to be replaced, or idle air passage make have been blocked off by excessive carbon build-up. If build-up is the problem, a good removal and cleaning will do the trick or an off the shelf spray cleaner may get the job done as well.

      Could also be clogged fuel injection system. Try a fuel treatment with a full tank of gas.if a older model GM front wheel drive it could be the lock-up solenoid on the transmission. or it could be a stopped up catalytic converter on about any make and model.
      First thing id do is check and change the fuel filter, its usually checked by blowing air through it (in the arrow direction) if no air flows through or it blows through slowly then its more than likely plugged change it and go from there. sometimes after all avenues have been followed and the problem still exists i have seen the sock on the fuel pump be plugged and do the same. it will run great while accelerating but stall at idle due to not enough fuel pressure.

      It could be a problem with the car not getting enough fuel, or it may have something to do with one or more of the sensors, such as the Mass Airflow Sensor. Is your check engine light on? If it is then its most likely a faulty or dirty sensor.

      Please chect the EGR valve to see if it is stuck open with a chunk of carbon. This will cause an internal vacumn leak and the car will not idle. To test the EGR valve (Exhaust Gas recirculation) pull it off and try to blow thru it. Also look to see if the EGR pintle is seated. If the car you are having the problem with is a Chrysler then the plate that seals the EGR will likely be completely missing. The fuel filter will not cause this problem as the fuel demand at idle is very low. A clogged Catalytic Converter will also not cause this problem.
  • Rebecca
    Rebecca - 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser - Engine - 9/8/2010
    Where is the water pump on a 2002 cruiser?
     
    • Bobby
      9/8/2010 Bobby
      it is a timing belt driven pump so it is under the timing belt cover
      Bobby
      9/21/2010 ptcruiser
      how do i git the water pump off
  • shirley
     
    • ronnie park
      9/8/2010 ronnie park
      ht leads go from the top of the distributer to the spark plugs.as for your questio about the cam .your car would make a loud clanking sound,mbe its just a noisy tappet,which is easy to sort(by a mechanic)sometimes they just need regauged,or replaced if worn .
  • josh
    josh - 2002 Chrysler Town & Country - Engine - 9/8/2010
    Trying to replace a serpentine belt on a van with the 3.3L
     
    • Ladiesman217
      9/8/2010 Ladiesman217
      1. Turn the wheel to the RIGHT as far as it will go.

      2. Raise the right front side of the car if possible. This is NOT nessesary, but makes the job a little easier. Be safe and use a jack stand.

      3. Remove 2 of the lower inner plastic fender/splash guards. They have several of those plastic push buttons. I used a claw hammer and fat screwdriver blade to pry them out. The lower guard has a small metal screw. I used pliers on that one. Set them aside.

      4. Now you can see the serpentine belt, the tensioner and all of the pulleys. You will need a light of some kind. Take a good look at the belt and note the route it takes. The idea is to take the tension off the belt and easily remove it. The reality is somewhat different.

      5. The tensioner is designed to be moved with a 1/2 (or is it 3/8) square drive socket wrench. It has a square hole in it that you should be able to insert a tool and pull down to move the tensioner and make belt removal easy. The frame of the van is in the way of the square hole. However the spring box end of the tensioner has a rectangular lug on it. The lug is about 3/8 inch thick and 3/4 inch long. I put a 12 inch adjustable wrench on it and pushed up. The tensioner pulley then comes down allowing the belt to come off easily.

      6. I reccomend putting the new belt on the furthest highest pulley first. That would be the power steering pump. Then continue along the bottom following the diagram. But skip the AC pump for now. This allows you to put the belt in all the tight remote places.

      7. When you are ready to put pressure on the tensioner again the AC pump will be easy to get to.
  • nazai
    nazai - 1994 Chrysler LHS - Engine - 9/8/2010
    Engine keeps cutting of on me
    i stopped at a stop sign and the car cut off on me had to wait 15minutes for it to start back up again. I was able to drive about a 1/2 mile when the car just cut off while i was driving. What could cause this
     
    • yboy82
      9/8/2010 yboy82
      A defective fuel pump or fuel pump relay can cause your engine to cuts off. Did you already diagnose your vehicle with a scan tool to know if there is a stored trouble code in your vehicle?
 
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