Google 2.7 liter engine. Nothing else..... You wont believe it

Will your fan turn on when A/C unit is on? if not then fan motor might be bad. If fan comes on the temp relay @ fan is probably bad-relay is about $30 fan is more do some troubleshooting before replacing parts.
Could also be overloaded fuse in electrical panel. Hope this helps Good Luck.

Bad fan relay down at the fan

could also be the fan motor, or the coolant temp sensor. you have to supply the fan with power and see if it turns, also check the fuse.

First place to check is the relay. They are prone to failing The relay box is under the hood in front on the drivers side . It is marked fuse and relay. Look at the inside of the cover and it will tell you where it is. You can swap it with just about any other relay , they are all the same and see if problem goes away. If so they are 21,00 at chrysler dealer

Air bag lite has been a problem with Sebring since 2001 and not resolved. 2 causes one is the clock spring in the steering wheel and the other is the seat belt receiver on the passenger side. Try this. When the lite is on take the seat belt and jam it in and out of the passenger side receiver. See if lite blinks or goes out entirely. It will eventually go out on its own but it will come back again. Dont waste money trying to fix. As far as check engine lite. check your gas cap. Take it off and tighten 3 clicks drive for 40 or fifty miles see if it goes out. Dont know what fuses you pulled but dont think any would check engine lite. Most common is the oxygen sensor

you mean the starter? it is located where the engine and transmission meet the starter turns the fly wheel. The only way to get to it is usually from underneath the vehicle. It will look cylindrical in shape and have 2-3 wires attached to it. One will be a large power wire will look like a battery cable.

What were the fault code numbers specifically?

is your "oil' indicator light also on? are you leaking anything from the bottom of the car? check engine light can mean anything from a bad sensor to a real problem waiting to happen. since you are experiencing hesitation and engine stop a few things I would check are 1. oil both level and filter. 2. air filter. 3 seals and gaskets (if you do not know how to check these things it is adviseable to have a mechanic check them for you. ) also some questions to be answered in determining where your problems lay. does it hesitate and sputter before it dies or is it just an on off thing? does it blow white plumes of exhaust before dieing?

the MIL lamp which means "malfunction indicator lamp" which in your case is the check engine light, is set off when the computer has detected a problem with the vehicle. Its trying to tell you something, you have to have the codes read on the vehicle your vehicle being a 1995 is a crossover year of the OBDII system, so your car could be OBDII or OBDI many chain parts store will read the codes for the vehicle for free, otherwise you need to get a code reader and then we can start to point you in the right direction.

The computer system has detected a fault. You need to connect a code reader to the Data Link Connector under the dash and retrieve the diagnostic trouble code(s).

More than likely the oxegen sensor

all the electrical, you may be getting no spark. try getting a spark tester or you can do it by pulling off a spark plug wire and seeing if it sparks to ground when craning the engine. If there is no spark, start checking the coil packs or distributor... not sure which your car has off the top of my head. But I believe the 2.5 is a distributor. So check the distributor and then crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensor and the ignition module.

Verify that the fuel pump is still turning on by listening by the fill pipe while someone turns the key to on (not crank), the pump should humm for two seconds and stop. If you here that it means thet it is likely that the pump is good and is producing pressure. Next, remove a spark plug and see if it is wet with fuel. If it is, put it bak and try to start the car again but this time with your foot held all the way down on the gas pedal. IT this gets it started then there is an issue with the canister vent solenoid taking on raw fuel during fueling and will be caused by a fill up that completely fills the tank. The situation can be avoided in the meantime by not filling the tank all the way.

If the oil pressure senser goes bad, you would get a reading like that. The pressure senser is there to let you know if there is a problem, but if it goes bad, you get the light, when everything is fine. Bad sensers for vehicles with gauges could read zero pressure, then full tilt...back and forth.

Is the check engine light on?

Very high probability that the distributor is no good. Probability greater than 50%. It would help if you could check the codes that are stored in the computer with a code reader. If you have a fault code P0320, it needs a crankshaft position sensor and NOT a distributor. Here is a diagnostic that if you are able to perform this WHILE IT DOES NOT START it can confirm a bad distributor and give you 100% ASSURANCE. JUST MAKE SURE THAT YOU VERIFY THAT THE ENGINE HAS NO IGNITION SPARK BEFORE BEGINNING THIS STEP BY STEP. >>

No spark, injector pulse OK.
Tests/Procedures: 1. To test the coil in the distributor, disconnect the Automatic Shut Down (ASD) relay and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connectors.

2. Remove the distributor cap and connect a grounded jumper wire near the coil tower. This is to check for spark jumping from the coil.

3. Jumper pin 30 to pin 87 at the ASD relay.

4. Check for 12 volts to the Dark Green/Orange wire at the single wire connector at the distributor. This wire feeds the positive side of the coil.

5. Connect a 12v test light to B+. With the probe end of the test light, momentarily tap the Black/Gray wire at pin 4 (98 and later) or pin 11 (95-97 models) of the PCM. This action should cause the coil to fire.

6. If there is no spark out of the coil tower during this step, the distributor has failed and needs to be replaced.

Replace the crankshaft position sensor.

Hook up a code reader to the diagnostic connector under the dashboard on the driver side. This is the way vehicles are diagnosed. The codes will lead to the repair necessary. The cost of the tool is not that much considering that a shop will bill you a similar amount PLUS parts and labor to fix the problem. There are instructions that come with it and it is easy to do. After you read the code or codes, write them down and repost with the codes and we can tell you what parts to buy to DIY if you are up to it. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/.../E203030.html

because you add more load to the electrical system when you hit the gas, is your a/c also on when you notice this. Check your battery and altenator, there is a good chance the battery is getting weak. When was last time battery was replaced. And the alternator may not be creating enough amperage have the alternator load tested.

It's all about having the procedure in print in front of you. It would be not helpful for any mechanic to try to describe in his own words how to do it. If you access the appropriate manual that details the replacement of this part and with pics, it will remove most of the intimidation. This CAN be done at home, no problem.