See this Fig. Air bleed valve (1) and thermostat housing (2) 2.7L-engine

http://www.autozone.com/.../...rGuideContent.jsp

Check the radiator fan, it must turn on at the lights.

See this Coolant Temperature Sensor
For your 2007 Chrysler Sebring 2.4L SFI DOHC 4cyl

http://www.autozone.com/.../N-jq349Z91shd

Use it as a reference to identify the location.

Check the listing of recalls on the AutoMD website. Just because it may be a common issue does not mean there is any recall - or that the manufacturer is liable. You may also check the 'How-To-Guides' feature on the AutoMD website for the intake manifold gasket replacement steps.

First, check the battery and starter cables for their tightness or free of corrosion and physical damaged.

See this Starting system simplified diagram. Have a help from an assistant to crank the engine, use a 12 volt light tester or a digital voltmeter, apply it to the starter control circuit.
If there is light or 12 volts and the starter isn't cranking, then the starter is the culprit. Have the starter to bench test for free at the local auto parts stores.
If there isn't no light or no volts, then the ignition switch is the culprit.
Check the starter relay and position the transmission shifter in neutral.

http://www.samarins.com/glossary/starter.html


Note: a 3/4 charge battery is 12.50 volts
A discharge battery is 11.75 volts.
A battery under a cranking load and it is reading less than 7 volts,it will be a recycled ( junk ) battery.

There are two different models in this particular vehicle ( the VIN H & N ). Check the vehicle identification number before proceeding the repair or visually inspect the car and use it the proper instructions.

See this repair guide for timing belt replacement.

http://www.autozone.com/.../...rGuideContent.jsp

" My car is running hot while idling ", check the cooling radiator fan, make sure it turn on while idling.

thermostst bad? heater core plugged? sufficient coolant level?

Usually, this would be because the real cause of the perivous battery 'dead' problem was not resolved. Have to first fully charge the new battery - then have the charging system diagnosed / tested - for free - at any local auto parts store; Advance Auto, Auto Zone, NAPA.

Several possibilities; faulty / loose / corroded battery connections - including the negative chassis ground, faulty / defective alternator, faulty alternator wiring or connections, poor starter condition / wiring / connections, parasitic (small) electrical drain on the battery - such as dome light switch left on, or other system short / drain.

Free - have the check engine light scanned for free by any local auto parts store; Advance Auto, Auto Zone, NAPA. You can also purchase an inexpensive handheld OBDII scanner from many on-line sources, such as Amazon - for around $30-$40.

Scanning and solving a problem is more involved than just reading a code.

Still - free - just for the scan - from any local auto parts stores listed. The scan itself - is free. Notice there is no mention yet of replacing parts; or solving any problems - this would depend on the results. Of course, this aspect; to accurately fix the problem / repairing and replacing part(s) does have costs associated - but the initial scan for any stored or displayed fault codes is free.

First, repair the leaks, then the heat will be back to normal.

Insufficient coolant , trapped air in the cooling system might not have enough coolant to fully fill the heater core.

The hot coolant flows from the engine to the heater core through the "inlet" hose. After circulating through the core, the coolant returns to the water pump through the "outlet" or "return" hose. Both the inlet and outlet return hoses should feel hot when the engine is at normal operating temperature and the heater is on.

1. If the both heater core hoses were cooled, then this vehicle might have an insufficient coolant in the cooling system.
2. If the heater core inlet hose is hot and the outlet hose is cool, the heater core might be clogged.

Of course I need to know the origin of the clicking. If the starter is what is clicking then the starter is bad. Are you able to get access to the starter to do a simple circuit test? The starter is at the bottom front of the engine. You may be able to see it just raising the car up several inches with a floor jack, tires need not be off the ground.

The problem could also be in the IPM [integrated power module], if this is the case you need to have someone scan for codes. Possibly at O'Reilly's or AutoZone.