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Chrysler brakes repair questions and answers

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  • Barry
    Barry - 2002 Chrysler 300M - Brakes - 8/31/2011
    I cnnot release the parking brake
    • Spoon Sports
      8/31/2011 Spoon Sports
      The cable can build up rust and not release after it is disengaged.

      If you can slightly jack up one or both rear wheels on level ground and put your arm just behind the rear wheel at the axle and you will feel and see several lines going to the back of the wheel.

      One will be a thin steel tube ( hydralic line) NOT IT.
      Another will be a flexible cable going into the plate behind the rear wheel
      THATS IT

      You should be able to see the cables if you get on the ground under the rear bumper. The cables should run arcoss the axle to each wheel.

      Grab it and pull back and forth real hard several times and it should release then do it to the other side. (Don't grab any electrical wires).

      Make sure you have somebody with you when doing this.
  • james scott
    james scott - 2007 Chrysler PT Cruiser - Brakes - 8/17/2011
    How do i take off drum on back brakes shoe
    • Spoon Sports
      8/17/2011 Spoon Sports
      Do not apply the parking brake to the PT Cruiser prior to lifting it. This will engage the brake shoes and prevent the removal of the drum.

      Break the rear lug nuts loose with the wheel nut wrench before safely lifting the Cruiser with a car jack. Support the rear of the Cruiser securely on jack stands.

      Remove the rear lug nuts with a wheel nut wrench and then remove the rear wheels.

      Try to remove the drum by hand before proceeding. If there is no side-to-side wiggle of the drum, then it is stuck onto the hub flange. If the drum wiggles side to side but won't come off, then the drum ridge is stuck on the shoes preventing drum removal.

      Spray a stream of penetrating lubricant along the circumference of the wheel hub-to-drum connection. Allow the lubricant a few minutes to soak in and then strike the flat surface of the drum near the hub connection with a hammer until it breaks free. Reposition the drum or strike it in a few different locations on the flat surface until it breaks free.

      Try to remove the drum again by hand. If you cannot, then locate the rubber plug on the top rear of the backing plate and pry it off with a slotted screwdriver.

      Insert a brake spoon adjusting tool in the port until it contacts the star-wheel adjuster.

      Use the star-wheel adjuster to rotate the star-wheel with the brake spoon towards side of the Cruiser facing you. If you go the wrong way, the shoes will get tighter and you won't be able to turn the drum. In this case, all you have to do is reverse the direction of the star-wheel with the brake spoon.

  • Derek
    Derek - 2003 Chrysler Town & Country - Brakes - 8/12/2011
    Emergency brake pedel goes to floor and does not hold.
    I recently releaced the park brake, drove the vehicle and came home and tried to apply the park brake and it make a clicking sound, was not had to push down and now does not hold the vehicle on an incline (My driveway) the brakes still work, just not the emergency ...
  • 2005minivan
    2005minivan - 2005 Chrysler Town & Country - Brakes - 8/12/2011
    Sounds like brakes grinding but also happens when not braking.
    Right front wheel area makes sound like grinding brakes. Happened suddenly but is not consistant can use brakes and not hear anything. Sometimes sound also happens without applying brakes, just low speed driving. Car has 120,000 miles. None of the warning lights ...
    • Jimm
      8/6/2011 Jimm
      When was the last brake service / replacement for the front disc brakes? It sounds like the disc brake pad(s) may be worn all the way to the metal - when this happens, the rotor may be scored or damaged. You'll need to have the brake pads, the rotors, the wheel bearings (inner and outer), and the wheel / grease seals replaced at a minimum. Pull / remove the front and rear wheels to inspect the brakes for wear and evidence of damage.
      8/6/2011 2005minivan
      Its been a while and i'd be okay with the brake answer if it didn't also grind when not braking. This went from no sound to horrible in the matter of 2 hours of highway driving.
    • ronrepairs
      8/6/2011 ronrepairs
      .It could be the hub bearing,(wheel bearing) if it is not the brakes.
    • Derek
      8/12/2011 Derek
      A similiar thing happened to My wifes 03 town and country, it turned out to be the strut mount. it would give off a grinding sound while driving and sometimes while turning, but not always. we had to have it replaced twice, because the first replacement made the same sound. The mechanic we talked to replaced it again, but we were told that it was mainly an annoying sound because of the after market part. he replaced it again free of charge and we havn't had a problem with it since. easy way to check it out is to put the car in park and turn the wheel, if you notice a slight grinding sound then thats possibly what it is.
  • ray
    ray - 2009 Chrysler Town & Country - Brakes - 8/4/2011
    Changed front brakes & rotors on car. Daughter noticed a "ticking" noise & then wheel fell off. Did I miss something?
    75,000 miles. Changed front brakes & rotors. Daughter noticed a "ticking" noise and after a couple days the front wheel fell off. Are there any cotter pins holding the bolts on? Are there any pictures of this? I haven't seen the car yet, but we didn't encounter any ...
    • Jimm
      8/4/2011 Jimm
      Several possibilities; loose spindle nut - typically there is a cotter pin underneath a dust cover / center cap. May also be related to the wheel lug nuts not tightened / torqued properly. Try the 'How-To-Guides' feature this website for the specific steps to remove and replace the front brakes, rotor and wheels - with photos.
      8/5/2011 ray
      Thanks for your response. This was not the type of rotor replacement with the dust cover/center cap. Your "whheel lug nuts not tightened" answer is what I've concluded was the problem, but I haven't seen the car yet. I appreciate your response. Thanks again.........Ray
    • HouseCallAuto
      8/4/2011 HouseCallAuto
      You have not detailed where the wheel separation occurred. Maybe you did not tighten the lug nuts sufficiently? When you do brakes and rotors there is no reason to touch any bolts that could result in wheel / tire separation from vehicle so this leads me to believe you did not tighten the wheel nuts enough.
      8/5/2011 ray
      Thanks for your response. Without having seen the car, I've come to this conclusion as well. I feel like a dumbell, but the car recently had new tires put on & the lugs were cranked on so tight I had to use a bar to extend the leverage to break them. They then seemed a bit short & I thought that's why they might have been cranked on so tight. I appreciate your response. Thanks again................Ray
  • ray
    ray - 2009 Chrysler Town & Country - Brakes - 8/4/2011
    When replacing rotors, are there any cotter pins locking on the nuts?
    75,000 miles. After changing brake pads & rotors, there was a "ticking" sound and then the wheel fell off. Was it possible that I missed a cotter pin?
    • Bill
      8/4/2011 Bill
      You didn't take off main axle bolt which is a castle nut with cotter pin?
  • dawnr8msey
    dawnr8msey - 2007 Chrysler Town & Country - Brakes - 8/3/2011
    Moaning sound coming from rear when making a right turn.
    Mileage: 53,000 Replaced front brakes and rotors in April 2011. Noise happens whenever I make a right-hand turn, no matter how slight the turn, doesn't matter if vehicle is cold or warm. First heard noise 2 months ago. No warning lights are on.
    • jlstitt
      8/3/2011 jlstitt
      check the wheel bearings and lug nuts
  • leslee2us
    leslee2us - 1988 Chrysler New Yorker - Brakes - 7/24/2011
    Smoking white smoke from muffler
    I bought this car off a elderly man it sat for a very long time, only has 54.000 miles on it. When I take off from sitting at a red light there is alot of white smoke, only then do I see the smoke. after warm and after sitting at red light. I have had to replace one ...
    • Jimm
      7/24/2011 Jimm
      Sounds like two (2) different issues here. The white smoke may be related to a slight leak in the cooling system - perhaps a cylinder head gasket leak that seals when the engine warms up. Have a compression test done to confirm the cylinder head sealing integrity.
      The second issue is the brakes - certainly if the flexible brake hoses are aged / dry rotted - then they should be replaced as inexpensive insurance to maintain the braking system. Try the 'Estimate Cost' and the 'Find-A-Shop' features to gain a cost estimate for these repairs.
      8/25/2011 leslee2us
      Ok I added some fuel injection cleaner now it smokes so bad I cant drive it at all
  • Ivonne
    Ivonne - 2002 Chrysler Sebring - Brakes - 7/13/2011
    Whats is wrong with my 2002 chrysler sebring?
    it has on 82000 miles. i changed the back rotors, pads and calipers. The back rim on the passanger side its too hot and smell like burning after i drive. only the engine light is on, the OBD code is PO456
    • yboy82
      7/13/2011 yboy82
      P0456 means Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (very small leak). This trouble code is triggered when the PCM senses that there’s a very small leak by monitoring the fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor.
    • yboy82
      7/13/2011 yboy82
      Here are the possible cause of P0456

      •Loose or missing gas cap
      •Incorrect or defective gas cap
      •Small leak or hole in the EVAP system hoses and/or in the fuel tank hoses
      •Damaged or leaking EVAP canister
      •Small leak in the vent valve and/or purge valve
  • John Macknight
    John Macknight - 2004 Chrysler Sebring - Brakes - 7/3/2011
    My front brakes sometime shudder why
    • Jimm
      7/3/2011 Jimm
      Several possibilities; warped brake rotors, wheel bearings loose / faulty.
      7/3/2011 John Macknight
      Could it be a weak brake hose trying to collapse
  • paulleutgeb
    paulleutgeb - 2006 Chrysler 300 - Brakes - 6/28/2011
    New factory brakes and rotors squeak?
    • Nissan Technical Advisor
      Many brake pad compositions will make a swishing or grinding noise for the first few stops in the morning until the pads warm up and drive off any moisture they've accumulated overnight. Ever notice a hissing or grinding noise on some rainy or dewy mornings? It's the pads sweeping a thin film of rust that's formed on the iron discs, and it's perfectly normal. Okay, let's dig in and silence our brake noise. One fix is to simply change pads to a different type of friction material. It's usually hard to beat the original-equipment pads for a good compromise of pad life, noise, grip, dust creation and price, but changing to an aftermarket premium metallic or ceramic pad just might change the interaction that affects the resonant frequency of the pad and disc and, literally, change its tune. Check your brake rotor shield. If this shield contacts the brake rotor it can cause a squeaking noise. To check for this condition inspect the shield and bend shield back into proper position away from the brake rotor.
  • Eddie Fryman
    Eddie Fryman - 2000 Chrysler Sebring - Brakes - 6/24/2011
    How to change brake light bulbs
    • Spoon Sports
      6/24/2011 Spoon Sports
      My friend just did it. You need e a flat head s. driver and pliers.

      Pulling the trunk liner first. When you remove the push pins properly you can reuse it to put the trunk liner back.

      You should see three plastic wing nuts and the harness connection to the tail light assembly. You need to remove these to take out the assembly. When you do be sure not to remove the other wiring.

      The socket for the bulb needs to be turned about 60 degrees and it should come right out. Take out the old bulb and put the new one in. The store sold me a packet of dielectric to put on the terminals to help protect them.
  • Cisa93
    • Spoon Sports
      6/20/2011 Spoon Sports
      Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench and raise your vehicle. Locate the ABS controller on the front suspension cradle and integrated with the hydraulic control unit.

      Disengage the wiring harness from the ABS controller by holding the lock on the connector and pulling it away from the connector. You will then be able to remove the connector from its socket in the ABS controller.

      Clean the hydraulic control unit with MOPAR Brake Parts Cleaner or the equivalent. Label and disconnect the brake tubes hydraulic control unit. Remove the bolts that secure the mounting bracket for the hydraulic control unit to the front suspension and remove the mounting bracket. Remove the bolts that mount the hydraulic control unit to the bracket and detach the hydraulic control unit.

      Unplug the pump motor wiring harness and remove the screws that mount the ABS controller to the bottom of the hydraulic control unit. You can now separate the ABS controller from the hydraulic control unit.

      Install the new ABS controller by reversing the removal procedure. Use a torque wrench to tighten the mounting bolts for the ABS controller to 17 inch lbs. Torque the mounting bolts for the hydraulic control unit to 97 inch lbs. and torque the mounting bolts for the hydraulic control unit bracket to 21 feet lbs.

      Complete the installation and bleed the base brake system and the ABS. Test the vehicle to ensure proper operation of both braking systems.
      Spoon Sports
      6/21/2011 Cisa93
      There are four new bolts (torx head-like) that attach the electronic module to the "hydraulic control unit" So if I understand your directions correctly, I must remove the tubes to the hydraulic control unit? How are they attached. I see the new electronic module has mutliple holes (ports) and the electrical pins underneath. I don't have the vehicle with me at the moment, so I'm simply going by memory. Do you suggest that I raise the vehicle? remove these parts at ground level? Thank you
  • stkroegr
    • Jason
      3/24/2011 Jason
      This post is old, but it sounds like a vacuum leak from the booster.
    • automechanic
      6/15/2011 automechanic
      Brake fluid is low. Check brake reservoir level and fill if necessary.Brake Master Cylinder bad. Check for signs of leakage from Master Cylinder in the engine compartment next to the firewall and inside the driver's footwell. If there are signs of leakage or other causes have been eliminated, replace the Master Cylinder.
      Air in the brake system. Bleed brakes.
  • Roberta McLauchlan
    Roberta McLauchlan - 2007 Chrysler Pacifica - Brakes - 6/14/2011
    Brakes hesitate when stepping on gas and also slight pulling when stopping. No discernable noise however.
    When daughter drove car, she said I should have the brakes checked.
    • Spoon Sports
      6/14/2011 Spoon Sports
      "Brakes hesitate when stepping on gas; and also slight pulling when stopping" - I don't get this, please explain further.