Ceramic pads are the best. For more info. visit this site.
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp

go to advance auto parts and pick up a haynes book there it will show you how and you will have the book for future reference book is $25.00................good luck

The sho sho noise could be the brake booster has a vacuum leak. The engine is idling bad possibly due to a vacuum leak (which may be related to brake booster vacuum leak), faulty idle air control valve or throttle position sensor. Inspect the brake booster for vacuum leak and have the engine scanned for stored trouble codes. Post the codes here so we can translate them and give repair recommendations.

www.rockauto.com. Hope this help.

if the hissing stops wen opressing the brake then it is in the brake system. try to isolate the hissing. Does it hiss when the car is idling or only when it is moving?

As for the squeak? when you tap the brake is it the same squeak you are hearing while the car is moving or do they appear to be different squeaks? This can be caused by brake pad vibration if the mechanic did a poor job ion the install, also depending on the type of brake pads the material if they are metallic pads can cause squeaking.

same squeek, and hisses when idling.

the hiss then could be a vacuum leak. try opening the hood and listening for it, then have a friend press the brake real hard and try and isolate where the noise is coming from by listening to it go iin and out.

Since it is the same squeak I would say the problem is the brake job that was done. Brakes are not supposed to squeak. Reasons for the squeaking could be the: cheap brake pads installed that have poor linnings/material, rotors were not machined properly, or not at all, sloppy pad installation, mechanic didn't clean everything properly, and most likely didn't use any type of stop squeak when installign the pads.

It squeeks when I'm driving and not touching the brakes. In fact it stops when I touch the brakes and squeeks again when I take my foot off the pedal. How can this be the brakes?

Check for a brake pad sensor.
Depends on the location of the squeeking noise.
Is this noise in front or back area of the vehicle?

Any hissing noise that is loud enough to hear that is thought to be a vacuum leak would have to be a fairly large vacuum leak. That being said, that would mean that there would be a lean code stored in the PCM memory, like P0171. So, check for fault codes with a code reader (buy a $50 code reader) It does sound like you have a wear sensor rubbing a rotor causing the squeaking.

First off check your rear brake system & any possible cause at same.

advance auto parts or auto zone will scan it for free get the codes and post them on here so we can help you...............thank you and good luck

Driver side Front Radiator Down Low, Like Below Headlight

sounds like caliper is sticking

Disconnect ground cable from the ground stud on the right strut tower. Using a brake pedal positioning tool, depress brake pedal past its first 1 inch of travel and hold in this position.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Bolt and 2 nuts securing the speed control servo to vehicle
The wire harness connector from speed control servo
Leave the cable attached to the speed control servo, move it out of the way
Transmission Controller Mounting
Screw attaching the washer bottle filler neck to the vehicle
Move the neck to the side without loosening the filler tube
Nut and bolt holding the transmission controller and bracket to vehicle
Lift transmission controller up and move away from mounting position
Primary and secondary brake lines coming from the master cylinder, at the HCU
Use a crow foot wrench
Chassis brake lines at the HCU
Use a crow foot wrench

CAUTION
Do not apply a 12-volt power source to any terminals of the 24-way HCU connector when disconnected from the CAB.

24-way wiring harness connector from the CAB using the following procedure.
Grasp the lock on the 24-way connector
Pull it up from the connector as far as possible, unlocking and allowing the 24-way connector to raise out of the socket on the CAB

Raise vehicle.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Left front tire and wheel assembly
Fasteners securing the inner fender splash shield in place
Move the splash shield out of the way
3 bolts attaching the ICU to the mounting bracket
ICU from its mounting bracket
Then, remove the ICU from the vehicle by pulling it out around the left side of the mounting bracket, then out through the wheel well

NOTE: To replace the hydraulic control unit (HCU) or the controller antilock brake (CAB) on this vehicle, the entire integrated control unit (ICU) needs to be removed from the vehicle. The CAB can then be separated from the HCU.

CAUTION
Do not attempt to replace the CAB with the ICU mounted in the vehicle.

ICU from the vehicle
Pump/motor wiring harness from the CAB
4 bolts attaching the CAB to the HCU
Remove the CAB from the HCU.

To Install:

Install or connect the following:
CAB on the HCU.
4 bolts mounting the CAB to the HCU
The CAB mounting bolts Torque to: 17 inch. lbs. (2 Nm)
Pump/motor wiring harness into the CAB
ICU in the vehicle
ICU back in the vehicle and attach it to its mounting bracket
The 3 ICU mounting bolts Torque to: 97 inch. lbs. (11 Nm)
Inner fender splash shield
Tire and wheel assembly
Lower the vehicle.
Install or connect the following:
NOTE: Before installing the 24-way connector in the CAB be sure that the seal is properly installed in the connector.

The 24-way connector into the socket on the CAB is installed using the following procedure;
Position the 24-way connector in the socket on the CAB
carefully push it onto CAB as far as it will go
When connector is fully seated into the CAB socket push in the connector lock as far as it will go.
This will pull the 24-way connector into the socket on the CAB and lock it in the installed position
The 4 chassis brake lines on the HCU
The fittings are Torque to: 145 inch. lbs. (17 Nm)
Primary and secondary brake lines from the master cylinder to the HCU
The fittings are Torque to: 145 inch. lbs. (17 Nm)
Transmission controller
Washer bottle filler neck to the radiator support
Speed control servo to its mounting studs and radiator support
Brake pedal positioning tool
Remote ground cable

NOTE: The ICU may need to be initialized using the DRBIII scan tool after installation.

Bleed the base brakes and the ABS brakes hydraulic system.
Road test vehicle to ensure proper operation of the base and ABS systems

hi Paul so far from what your question i see no need to worry you are fine rotors do get hot to the touch and as long as you aren't smelling anything from the brake area or see the rotors getting red then you are good to go

Safety Tip:
Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or closed toe shoes.



1
Park your vehicle on a solid level surface. Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels.
2
Using a jack, lift up the front of your vehicle. Every vehicle comes from the factory with a jack. To locate and properly use this jack, see your owner's manual. The owner's manual will inform you where the recommended jacking location is located.
3
Secure the vehicle with jack stands on both sides for safety before starting any work. The pinch welds and the frame are the two best locations. Do not rely on the jack to hold the vehicle up while working.
4
Remove the front wheels by removing the lugs nuts that are holding them on. To do this, you will need to find the correct size socket and large ratchet or tire iron and turn them counter clockwise. If your vehicle is equipped with hub caps (plastic covers over the wheels), these will need to be removed to access the lug nuts.
5
Locate the brake caliper. Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts or pins.
6
Swivel the caliper up and away from the brake rotor and working area. Make sure you do not kink or pinch any brake lines. Do not disconnect the brake line
7
Remove the brake pads, lift out any anti squeal shims that may be present.
8
Press the caliper piston back into the housing.
9
Install the new pads into the caliper in reverse of how they were removed. If you have shims you will need to spray anti-squeak lubricant on the back before installation.
10
Install the caliper back onto the brake rotor and torque the caliper bolts to the manufacture specification. Press the brake pedal to move the piston outward.
11
Repeat steps 5 through 10 for the other side.
12
Install the wheel and torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer's specification in a star pattern.
13
Remove jack stands and lower vehicle to the ground.
14
Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder. Add fluid if necessary.
15
Verify that you have a solid brake pedal. Drive your vehicle at 15mph increments and apply the brakes 2 to 4 times to break in the new pads.
16
Road test vehicle, break in new pads.

Safety Tip:
Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or closed toe shoes.

1
Secure your vehicle on a level surface, making sure your car will not roll or lean too much when jacked up
2
Remove the cap from the brake master cylinder. Using a turkey baster, remove a quarter of the brake fluid from the master cylinder. Lift up the front of your vehicle using a floor jack.
3
Secure the vehicle with jack stands on both sides for safety before starting any work. The pinch welds and the frame are the two best locations. Do not rely on the jack to hold the vehicle up while working...
4
Remove the front wheels by removing the lugs nuts that are holding them on. To do this you will need to find the correct size socket and large ratchet or tire iron and turn them counter clockwise. If your vehicle is equipped with hub caps (plastic covers over the wheels), these will need to be removed to access the lug nuts.
5
Inspect the brake rotors for scoring, grooves, cracks and discoloration.
6
With a screwdriver remove the anti-rattle spring on the front of the brake caliper then remove the caliper mounting bolts.
7
Slide the brake caliper off of the brake rotor.
8
Support the brake caliper up and away from the working area. Make sure you do not kink or pinch any brake lines. Do not disconnect the brake line.
9
Remove the brake pads from brake caliper.
10
Compress caliper piston using a C-clamp.
11
Install the new brake pads in the brake caliper.
12
Reinstall the brake caliper.
13
Tighten the caliper sliding bolts then install the anti-rattle spring on the front of the brake caliper. Repeat for other side.
14
Install wheels and torque to 100 ft. lbs. in a star pattern.
15
Refill the brake fluid in the brake master cylinder with new DOT 3 brake fluid and reinstall the cap.
16
Road test vehicle, break in new pads.

sounds like your calipers is sticking.......needs to be replaced ........when you replace one you need to replace the other side too