P0456 means Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (very small leak). This trouble code is triggered when the PCM senses that there’s a very small leak by monitoring the fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor.

Here are the possible cause of P0456

•Loose or missing gas cap
•Incorrect or defective gas cap
•Small leak or hole in the EVAP system hoses and/or in the fuel tank hoses
•Damaged or leaking EVAP canister
•Small leak in the vent valve and/or purge valve

Several possibilities; warped brake rotors, wheel bearings loose / faulty.

Many brake pad compositions will make a swishing or grinding noise for the first few stops in the morning until the pads warm up and drive off any moisture they've accumulated overnight. Ever notice a hissing or grinding noise on some rainy or dewy mornings? It's the pads sweeping a thin film of rust that's formed on the iron discs, and it's perfectly normal. Okay, let's dig in and silence our brake noise. One fix is to simply change pads to a different type of friction material. It's usually hard to beat the original-equipment pads for a good compromise of pad life, noise, grip, dust creation and price, but changing to an aftermarket premium metallic or ceramic pad just might change the interaction that affects the resonant frequency of the pad and disc and, literally, change its tune. Check your brake rotor shield. If this shield contacts the brake rotor it can cause a squeaking noise. To check for this condition inspect the shield and bend shield back into proper position away from the brake rotor.

My friend just did it. You need e a flat head s. driver and pliers.

Pulling the trunk liner first. When you remove the push pins properly you can reuse it to put the trunk liner back.

You should see three plastic wing nuts and the harness connection to the tail light assembly. You need to remove these to take out the assembly. When you do be sure not to remove the other wiring.

The socket for the bulb needs to be turned about 60 degrees and it should come right out. Take out the old bulb and put the new one in. The store sold me a packet of dielectric to put on the terminals to help protect them.

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench and raise your vehicle. Locate the ABS controller on the front suspension cradle and integrated with the hydraulic control unit.

Disengage the wiring harness from the ABS controller by holding the lock on the connector and pulling it away from the connector. You will then be able to remove the connector from its socket in the ABS controller.

Clean the hydraulic control unit with MOPAR Brake Parts Cleaner or the equivalent. Label and disconnect the brake tubes hydraulic control unit. Remove the bolts that secure the mounting bracket for the hydraulic control unit to the front suspension and remove the mounting bracket. Remove the bolts that mount the hydraulic control unit to the bracket and detach the hydraulic control unit.

Unplug the pump motor wiring harness and remove the screws that mount the ABS controller to the bottom of the hydraulic control unit. You can now separate the ABS controller from the hydraulic control unit.

Install the new ABS controller by reversing the removal procedure. Use a torque wrench to tighten the mounting bolts for the ABS controller to 17 inch lbs. Torque the mounting bolts for the hydraulic control unit to 97 inch lbs. and torque the mounting bolts for the hydraulic control unit bracket to 21 feet lbs.

Complete the installation and bleed the base brake system and the ABS. Test the vehicle to ensure proper operation of both braking systems.

This post is old, but it sounds like a vacuum leak from the booster.

Brake fluid is low. Check brake reservoir level and fill if necessary.Brake Master Cylinder bad. Check for signs of leakage from Master Cylinder in the engine compartment next to the firewall and inside the driver's footwell. If there are signs of leakage or other causes have been eliminated, replace the Master Cylinder.
Air in the brake system. Bleed brakes.

"Brakes hesitate when stepping on gas; and also slight pulling when stopping" - I don't get this, please explain further.

Look behind your brake pedal. You can check out this link http://images.google.com/images to see an image it.

this could be related to a damaged speed sensor. You'll need a scanner that can read abs codes to see if there is a code present. I would have this checked out sooner than later and like i said hopefully it is just one of the speed sensors acting up.

It sounds like the ABS is kicking on. Yes, it is probably a wheel speed sensor located on the wheels. You should be able to replace the sensor without having to mess with the wheel bearings.

Now i find this odd because calipers are used from disc and drums use shoes. If its the shoes you are talking about, there is a spur looking thing in the middle of the drum that you need to rotate (Clockwise or otherwise hehe i just thought of that now) to adjust the gap of the shoes

Source: Just did the same job to my Civic last year. Mine was sticking.

It could be the rotors. They are either warpped or worn out. I have had my brakes changed but I need to put new rotors because they are worn out. When I had my brakes changed they did something but I can't remember what it is called to smooth out the rotors. My mechanic said they still had some use but I have that sqeeking problem too.

Sounds like. How does it feel. Does vehicle move?

The light will not reset until the cause is repaired. If the ABS light is on it is not because you rotated the tires. There are fault codes stored that relate to the cause. So, call it a dummy light all you want but it is on for a reason.

Maybe the brake reservoir is overfilled?