The 2 major parts of any ABS system is the ABS SPeed Sensor and the ABS module. Speed sensor is cheap the module costs thousands of dollars between $1500 -$2000 to fix it.

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it will readjust on its own.

Determine which ABS controller your Chrysler Town & Country will need. You'll want to be sure the new controller is compatible with your make and model of Town & Country. ABS was first featured on the second generation Town & Country introduced in 1991.

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench and raise your vehicle. Locate the ABS controller on the front suspension cradle and integrated with the hydraulic control unit.

Disengage the wiring harness from the ABS controller by holding the lock on the connector and pulling it away from the connector. You will then be able to remove the connector from its socket in the ABS controller.

Clean the hydraulic control unit with MOPAR Brake Parts Cleaner or the equivalent. Label and disconnect the brake tubes hydraulic control unit. Remove the bolts that secure the mounting bracket for the hydraulic control unit to the front suspension and remove the mounting bracket. Remove the bolts that mount the hydraulic control unit to the bracket and detach the hydraulic control unit.

Unplug the pump motor wiring harness and remove the screws that mount the ABS controller to the bottom of the hydraulic control unit. You can now separate the ABS controller from the hydraulic control unit.

Install the new ABS controller by reversing the removal procedure. Use a torque wrench to tighten the mounting bolts for the ABS controller to 17 inch lbs. Torque the mounting bolts for the hydraulic control unit to 97 inch lbs. and torque the mounting bolts for the hydraulic control unit bracket to 21 feet lbs.

Complete the installation and bleed the base brake system and the ABS. Test the vehicle to ensure proper operation of both braking systems.

Inspect the stoplight switch.

Note: Stoplight switch directs current to the stop lights, cruise control, and shift interlock to turn them on or off
When not replaced, stop lights will run continually or not function, potentially causing premature bulb failure, safety issues and/or the transmission will not shift out of park

If the light is on all the time, it could mean you simply forgot to release the parking (emergency) brake. The brake warning light remains on when the brake is set as a reminder. If the brake warning light remains on when the parking brake is released, then something is amiss.

In some cases, the brake warning light may remain on if the switch on the parking brake pedal or lever is misadjusted. Nothing is wrong with the brakes and a simple adjustment should fix the problem.

If the brake warning light comes on when you apply the brakes, or is on continuously, it means that hydraulic pressure has been lost in one side of the brake system or that the fluid level in the master cylinder is dangerously low (due to a leak somewhere in the brake system). In either case, the fluid level in the master cylinder should be checked. Adding brake fluid to the master cylinder reservoir may temporarily solve the problem. But if there's a leak, the new fluid will soon be lost and the warning light will come back on.

Brake fluid leaks are serious because they may cause the brakes to fail! So avoid driving the vehicle until the system can be inspected to determine what's wrong. Leaks can occur in brake hoses, brake lines, disc brake calipers, drum brake wheel cylinders or the master cylinder itself. Wet spots at hose or line connections would indicate a leak that needs to be fixed.

Leaking brake fluid can also contaminate the brake linings, causing them to slip or grab. The uneven braking action that results may cause the vehicle to veer to one side when the brakes are applied. Brake shoes or pads that have been contaminated with brake fluid cannot be dried out and must be replaced.

Brake Warning Light Circuit
The brake system is divided into two hydraulic circuits. On most rear-wheel drive vehicles, it is divided so one circuit applies the front brakes and the other applies the rear brakes. On front-wheel drive cars and minivans, the system is usually split diagonally. One circuit works the right front and left rear brake, and the other works the left front and right rear brake. This is done for safety purposes so if one circuit loses all its brake fluid and fails, the vehicle will still have one remaining circuit to apply two wheel brakes.

Usually located on the master cylinder or the brake lines exiting the master cylinder is a "pressure differential" switch. If either brake circuit develops a leak and loses its fluid, the difference in pressure when the brakes are applied will trip the differential switch causing the brake warning light to come on.

Abs Warning Light
On vehicles equipped with antilock brakes (ABS), a second warning light is provided to warn if a problem occurs within the ABS system. The ABS lamp comes on when the ignition is turned on for a bulb check, then goes out after the engine starts. If the ABS warning light remains on or comes on while driving, it indicates a fault has occurred in the ABS system.

What happens next depends on the nature of the fault. On most applications, the ABS system disables itself if the ABS warning light comes on and remains on. This should have no effect on normal braking. Even so, ABS will NOT be available in an emergency situation or when braking on a wet or slick surface.

CAUTION: If the brake warning light also comes on and remains on while the ABS warning light it on, it signals a serious problem. Your vehicle may not be safe to drive. The brakes and ABS system should be inspected immediately to determine the nature of the problem!

If the ABS light comes on momentarily then goes out, the nature of the problem is usually minor and the ABS system usually remains fully operational. Some vehicle manufacturers call this kind of fault a "nonlatching" fault (meaning it isn't serious enough to disable the ABS system).

Regardless of the type of fault that occurred to trigger the ABS warning lamp, a special "code" is recorded in the ABS module's memory to aid in diagnosing the problem. On some vehicles this code can be retrieved by putting the ABS system into a special diagnostic mode. The code is then flashed out through the ABS warning lamp. The code number refers to a diagnostic chart in a service manual that must be followed to pinpoint the faulty component. On other applications, a special "scan tool" must be plugged into the vehicle's diagnostic connector to read out the fault code.

Diagnosing ABS problems requires a fair amount of knowledge and expertise (as well as special equipment in many applications), so this job is best left to a competent professional

The cable can build up rust and not release after it is disengaged.

If you can slightly jack up one or both rear wheels on level ground and put your arm just behind the rear wheel at the axle and you will feel and see several lines going to the back of the wheel.

One will be a thin steel tube ( hydralic line) NOT IT.
Another will be a flexible cable going into the plate behind the rear wheel
THATS IT

You should be able to see the cables if you get on the ground under the rear bumper. The cables should run arcoss the axle to each wheel.

Grab it and pull back and forth real hard several times and it should release then do it to the other side. (Don't grab any electrical wires).

Make sure you have somebody with you when doing this.

Do not apply the parking brake to the PT Cruiser prior to lifting it. This will engage the brake shoes and prevent the removal of the drum.

Break the rear lug nuts loose with the wheel nut wrench before safely lifting the Cruiser with a car jack. Support the rear of the Cruiser securely on jack stands.

Remove the rear lug nuts with a wheel nut wrench and then remove the rear wheels.

Try to remove the drum by hand before proceeding. If there is no side-to-side wiggle of the drum, then it is stuck onto the hub flange. If the drum wiggles side to side but won't come off, then the drum ridge is stuck on the shoes preventing drum removal.

Spray a stream of penetrating lubricant along the circumference of the wheel hub-to-drum connection. Allow the lubricant a few minutes to soak in and then strike the flat surface of the drum near the hub connection with a hammer until it breaks free. Reposition the drum or strike it in a few different locations on the flat surface until it breaks free.

Try to remove the drum again by hand. If you cannot, then locate the rubber plug on the top rear of the backing plate and pry it off with a slotted screwdriver.

Insert a brake spoon adjusting tool in the port until it contacts the star-wheel adjuster.

Use the star-wheel adjuster to rotate the star-wheel with the brake spoon towards side of the Cruiser facing you. If you go the wrong way, the shoes will get tighter and you won't be able to turn the drum. In this case, all you have to do is reverse the direction of the star-wheel with the brake spoon.

Visit this site via this link below. Follow their step-by-step instructions on how to install and adjust the emergency parking brake.

http://www.autozone.com/.../...rGuideContent.jsp

When was the last brake service / replacement for the front disc brakes? It sounds like the disc brake pad(s) may be worn all the way to the metal - when this happens, the rotor may be scored or damaged. You'll need to have the brake pads, the rotors, the wheel bearings (inner and outer), and the wheel / grease seals replaced at a minimum. Pull / remove the front and rear wheels to inspect the brakes for wear and evidence of damage.

.It could be the hub bearing,(wheel bearing) if it is not the brakes.

A similiar thing happened to My wifes 03 town and country, it turned out to be the strut mount. it would give off a grinding sound while driving and sometimes while turning, but not always. we had to have it replaced twice, because the first replacement made the same sound. The mechanic we talked to replaced it again, but we were told that it was mainly an annoying sound because of the after market part. he replaced it again free of charge and we havn't had a problem with it since. easy way to check it out is to put the car in park and turn the wheel, if you notice a slight grinding sound then thats possibly what it is.

Several possibilities; loose spindle nut - typically there is a cotter pin underneath a dust cover / center cap. May also be related to the wheel lug nuts not tightened / torqued properly. Try the 'How-To-Guides' feature this website for the specific steps to remove and replace the front brakes, rotor and wheels - with photos.

You have not detailed where the wheel separation occurred. Maybe you did not tighten the lug nuts sufficiently? When you do brakes and rotors there is no reason to touch any bolts that could result in wheel / tire separation from vehicle so this leads me to believe you did not tighten the wheel nuts enough.

You didn't take off main axle bolt which is a castle nut with cotter pin?

check the wheel bearings and lug nuts