Auto Answers » Brakes » Chrysler » Page 2

Chrysler brakes repair questions and answers

Post your Chrysler brakes question or share what you know by answering questions

206 Questions
Sort by:
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 1999 Chrysler Concorde - Brakes - 5/25/2014
    2 brake lines from master cylinder & 1 from left front wheel. Where does each line go?
    All go to A block behind left front fender but what hole in block does each line go to?
     
    0 answer
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 2007 Chrysler Town & Country - Brakes - 5/25/2014
    What do I need to replace master cylinder on 2007 Chrysler
    What tool do I need to replace master cylinder on 2007 Chrysler
     
    • HouseCallAuto
      5/25/2014 HouseCallAuto
      No special tool that I know of. It is rare for master cylinders to go bad on a 2007 vehicle. Make sure this is really the cause before replacing it. They rarely fail anymore.
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 2007 Chrysler Town & Country - Brakes - 5/24/2014
    Hat do I need to replace master cylinder on 2007 Chrysler
    Front brake pad rotor and master cylinder
     
    0 answer
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 2009 Chrysler Town & Country - Brakes - 5/11/2014
    I changed both my front disc brake pads. Afterwards, my brake warning light started lighting up intermittently.
    Car had no problems prior to changing front pads. I didn't open up the bleeder screws when pushing caliper pistons back. The master cylinder cap was left on also. The brake warning light comes on intermittently. Sometimes off days at a time. And sometimes every few ...
     
    • Jimm
      5/11/2014 Jimm
      Check the most obvious; brake fluid level, check the ABS sensors on the front brake rotors (wiring and connections) - as sometimes the sensors can simply be caked with dirt / brake dust.

      Do the brakes feel tight - high pressure and solid brake pedal when applying the brakes?

      Please check these items first and post a reply with the results.
      Jimm
      5/11/2014 AutoMD Member
      My fluid level is good. Never let it drop during process. And my ABS light never has come on. Only brake warning light. Wouldn't that light up if a problem with ABS sensor?
      Jimm
      5/11/2014 AutoMD Member
      Any chance I damaged something by not opening the bleeder when compressing the caliper piston? I've read that alot of people say u should.
    • GT500Knights
      5/11/2014 GT500Knights
      Check your parking brake sensor. It may have become loose and worked itself into a different position. It has happened.

      Check connections at the brake fluid reservoir. There is a sensor there that basically has two parts: the sensor and the float. When the fluid level gets low, the float drops and closes the connection and illuminates the brake warning light. Also, your brake pedal is spongy because you allowed some air into the brake lines. As you know, air is compressible. Ensure your brake fluid level is topped off properly.
      GT500Knights
      5/11/2014 AutoMD Member
      Ill have to check parking brake sensor. I I already checked fluid level sensor dy disconnecting it and seeing if the light went away. It didn't. I never let the fluid drop while bleeding the brakes but I will try again?
    • AutoMD Member
      5/11/2014 AutoMD Member
      I've read some vehicles need a scanner while bleeding brakes to get air out of ABS unit. Should I have had a scanner while doing this?
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 2008 Chrysler Pacifica - Brakes - 4/30/2014
    Problems with abs system
    Had abs scanned pulled a c121e code brake pressure sensor where is this sensor located?
     
    0 answer
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 2009 Chrysler Town & Country - Brakes - 3/27/2014
    Vibrations and shimmy on brakeing
    I have about 87,000 miles on my 2009 town & country. I find I have a vibration and shimmy while braking which gets worst with higher speeds. It becomes severe when braking at highway speed and make the whole van shake. I have had the brakes checked and have been ...
     
    • HouseCallAuto
      3/25/2014 HouseCallAuto
      Yes I do. This vehicle is sensitive to warping the rotors both front and rear. The aftermarket pads and rotors are not high quality enough to prevent the issue from returning. Go to the dealer oarts dept and buy genuine Chrysler pads and rotors for the front and rear and then have someone install your parts or do it yourself. But, the dealer parts cost almost 4 times what the auto parts store charges. That will solve the issue and keep it from returning for at least 3 years.
    • Jimm
      3/26/2014 Jimm
      The parts are readily available from these many on-line sources, www.partsgeek.com, www.rockauto.com, www.discountautoparts.com, www.autopartswarehouse.com, www.jcwhitney.com - to list only a few possibilities.
      In fact, they (RockAuto) list the front disc brake pads from around $26.00 to 42.00 per set (semi-metallic) and front brake rotors (same the OEM or better quality) from around $33.00 (each) for your vehicle. Be sure to specify the higher quality / high performance brake parts.
      These will be manufactured by the same companies that also supply direct to the factory - there is no need to pay excess cost for the dealership prices.
      Jimm
      3/26/2014 HouseCallAuto
      Jimm, this last statement about the pads and rotors is not true and I have to correct it. There is a huge difference in the pads and rotors. I have been in the situation with this same vehicle less than 6 months ago and had the opportunity to have them side by side with there aftermarket counterparts. They are completely different in appearance and weight and surface finish.
    • Jimm
      3/27/2014 Jimm
      Please clarify which of the statements you believe are untrue...the pads and rotors are available in the aftermarket from the same companies that source those parts direct to the factories. This is a true statement - you (anyone) can purchase the same disc brake parts and rotors from the same companies that supply to the OEM factories. Beck - Arnley, Bendix, Raybestos - and several other major brands and companies will supply brakes and components direct to the automotive OEMs as well as offer the same parts in the aftermarket.

      The last statement is also true - one does not have to purchase these brake parts strictly at the dealerships - there are numerous sources for the same brake parts as what came equipped on the vehicle from the factory as original equipment.
    • HouseCallAuto
      3/27/2014 HouseCallAuto
      I thought I made it pretty clear what I said. A rotor that is boxed with a genuine "Mopar" label is superior to a rotor with "raybestos" or "wagner" or Bendix or whomever. In many cases the difference between them does not show and I agree that the add'l money paid for the genuine part will not pay for itself. However, in the case of the Town & Country, Grand Caravan, and Caravan the aftermarket rotors labeled "Raybestos" or "Wagner" or "Bendix" fail prematurely based upon professional experienience with solving persistent cases of warped rotors causing brake shimmy. I say this based upon more than one incident with the same vehicle. Additionally as I said, I have had the genuine parts (Mopar) along side the aftermarket (Raybestos) and there were visual differences in appearance, weight and surface finish. What more can I say to support my statement? I've been doing brakes for 38 years and have seen dozens of instances with all kinds of cars where we opted to "solve" a premature brake pad or rotor failure by buying the parts at the dealer in order to get the "genuine" "Mopar" or "ACDELCO" or "Motorcraft". It don't matter where you buy them, at the dealer or online. But my point was, there is a difference. The companies that make the aftermarket pads and rotors *might* also supply the automobile manufacturers, not sure and there is no way to confirm they do that I know of.

      Example - one online source we all are familiar with sells a rear rotor for a 2009 Town & Country for $84.79 with the genuine Mopar label and yet the Raybestos in the same category under part # 780623R is $36.79 and the Mopar rotor will hold up better than the Raybestos
    • AutoMD Member
      3/27/2014 AutoMD Member
      Check out my video on youtube. The brake pads on your van may be fine.. It is most likely the surface the pads are stopping on. https://www.youtube.com/watch
    • Jimm
      3/27/2014 Jimm
      House Call Auto, contrary to popular belief, Chrysler does not make their own brake pads and brake rotors. A major tier one brake component supplier actually manufactures and sells these factory brake pads and rotors directly to Chrysler for their various models.
      This is similar to any vehicle component not manufactured directly by any of the major auto companies; Audi, BMW, Ford, GM, Honda, Hyundai, Mercedes, Nissan, Toyota, etc. - each company has outsourced to the respective suppliers to engineer and manufacture components for vehicle assembly. This is not necessarily a bad approach as it does save vehicle costs overall. It also leaves the component expertise and engineering to the supplier base as a specailist for their product.

      This includes brakes and brake rotors. There is no reason the brake rotors labeled as 'Mopar' on the carton are considered as inferior to the quality aftermarket rotors available. In other words, the same original equipement brake rotors and pads (and many other parts) are available on the auto parts marketplace - external to the dealership parts organization.

      Furthermore, one can also purchase aftermarket brake parts; both pads and rotor - which exceed the OEM specifications for better service life and improved performance. The brands such as; FreMax (Brazil / Latin America), Raybestos, Bosch braking, Brembo, Bendix, Wagner - to list only a few, will offer brake rotors and brake pads that exceed the OEM specifications.
    • HouseCallAuto
      3/27/2014 HouseCallAuto
      Jimm, I have provided credible evidence with personal experience I detailed and corroboration by many other mechanics I associate with I have come to know over the years to support what it is that I stated about the Mopar rotors and pads. It was not based upon a single experience with one problem vehicle. Can you state the source where it says that the Mopar branded rotors are the same rotors as sold under the other manufacturers names at a fraction of the cost which you are claiming? I don't think you can. You want everyone to believe that when they replace the front and rear pads and rotors with all Raybestos parts (example brand, other brands as well) on a 2009 Chrysler Town & Country minivan and 9000 miles later they have a brake pulsation that there would be nothing add'l to gain by next time using the Mopar branded pads and rotors all around? You want everyone to believe that there is no difference but the price of the parts given the two different scenarios because of your claim that they are the same parts and I know of no experienced employed mechanic that would ever agree with your viewpoint on this topic. No offense meant to you Jimm as this is just a difference of opinion and not an attack. We both help people on here. That is our focus.
      HouseCallAuto
      3/27/2014 Jimm
      House Call Auto - no offense meant and none taken. My point is simply that purchase of 'Mopar' branding brake rotors is no guarantee of long life or that these rotors are superior than rotors offered via the aftermarket.
      In fact, the brake rotors made for most Chysler vehicles - including the Town and Country are supplied by the Latin America-based FreMax company. These brake rotors - which are same as the OEM as installed at the factory - are available less expensively via the aftermarket.
      HouseCallAuto
      3/27/2014 HouseCallAuto
      "Fremax has been chosen by Mitsubishi Motors do Brasil to be the OEM supplier of rotors and drums. All vehicles assembled in Brazil are equipped with Fremax products in both axles.
      Jimm, Mitsubishi is not all of Chrysler...Did I miss something? No reference to any other oem besides Mitsubishi and for only the last 8 years..
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 2006 Chrysler Pacifica - Brakes - 3/18/2014
    The rear passager brake locks up when I change gear into Drive. How do I release the brake?
    I always put parking brake on when I leave my car in a public area. I released the parking brake it reversed just fine bit when I changed gear into drive it locked up right way. What could be the issue and what's the quickest way to fix so I can get my car home to ...
     
    0 answer
  • james
    james - 2002 Chrysler Voyager - Brakes - 3/7/2014
    Whats wrong with my rear brake cylider?
    Brake pedal went to the floor so i take a look and see that one side of the brake cylinder had been pushed, or blown out. Some how the metal plunger was pushed out of its seal on one side I replaced it with a new one. Just that part. I checked the fluid and Bleed ...
     
    • Jimm
      3/7/2014 Jimm
      First step - remove the old fluid from the system; there could be contamination / dirt to cause the wheel cylinder to bind or seize. Replace the old fluid with new brake fluid of the recommended type; DOT 3 or 4.

      Next step - check the brake proportioning valve (looks like a small block) located near the brake master cylinder - could be faulty or also full of dirt / debris. Remove the proportioning valve to inspact and clean - the purpose of the proportioning valve is to balance brake hydraulic pressure between the front and rear wheels to prevent overpressure on one side (front or rear) to cause the vehicle loss of control during braking.

      Finally, after these items are replaced - fully bleed the brake system - beginning with the rear wheel position furthest from the master cylinder- and work your way in turn to each wheel position closest to the master cylinder.
  • james
    james - 2002 Chrysler Voyager - Brakes - 3/7/2014
    I replaced the rear brake cylinder because one side blew out the metal plunger.
    I replaced the old one with a new one. Bleed the brakes, i had a good pedal. Put the tire on and rolle about two foot and tapped the brakes, and the pedal went all the way back to the floor. Pulled the tire off,and the same thing happened. Thats all that i have ...
     
    • Jimm
      3/7/2014 Jimm
      First step - remove the old fluid from the system; there could be contamination / dirt to cause the wheel cylinder to bind or seize. Replace the old fluid with new brake fluid of the recommended type; DOT 3 or 4.

      Next step - check the brake proportioning valve (looks like a small block) located near the brake master cylinder - could be faulty or also full of dirt / debris. Remove the proportioning valve to inspact and clean - the purpose of the proportioning valve is to balance brake hydraulic pressure between the front and rear wheels to prevent overpressure on one side (front or rear) to cause the vehicle loss of control during braking.

      Finally, after these items are replaced - fully bleed the brake system - beginning with the rear wheel position furthest from the master cylinder- and work your way in turn to each wheel position closest to the master cylinder.
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 2001 Chrysler PT Cruiser - Brakes - 1/19/2014
    What is definition of DTC code: 18 ABS Chrysler ?
    Code reader indicates code: 18 ABS Chrysler but does not explain cause or suggested solution for the code condition. Presently ABS & TRAC function are not working. The ABS & TRAC lights are lighted on the dash all the time and the ABS & TRAC functions are disabled.
     
    • Jimm
      1/19/2014 Jimm
      18 ABS Chrysler = Brake Pressure Switch Circuit Malfunction

      Probable Causes;

      1.Open or short circuit condition
      2.Poor electrical connection
      3.Faulty ECU

      Also, as a first step - double check the brake fluid level in brake master cylinder.
      Jimm
      1/20/2014 AutoMD Member
      Hi Jimm,

      Thanks for the DTC defintion & Possible causes. I will check further and will get back when I clear the trouble hopefully. thanks again and have a great day. RPT
    • HouseCallAuto
      1/19/2014 HouseCallAuto
      In my abs diagnostic info for 2001 PT Crusier I see no reference to any NUMERIC fault codes. Instead it seems that actual titles / phrases are spelled out on a scanner display rather than a fault code number. All Chrysler vehicles are not like this but PT Cruiser is like this so DTC 18 that you are asking about seems to be irrevelant.

      Example of a few :

      Right Front Sensor Circuit Failure
      Right Front Sensor Signal Failure
      Pump Motor Not Working Properly
      Controller Failure

      and there are like 10 others
      HouseCallAuto
      1/20/2014 AutoMD Member
      Hi HouseCallAuto,

      Thanks for taking the time to comment on my case of trouble.

      When I first used the DTC reader it said: Left Rear Sensor Ckt Failure. I replaced the sensor, erased the DTC code memory. Turning the ignition on afterward still indiacted the alarm/code condition on the dash lights: TRAC & ABS. I subsequently re-read the system with the code reader and that's when the "18 ABS Chrysler" annunciation appeared on the code reader.

      Many thanks and have a great day, RPT
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 2005 Chrysler Town & Country - Brakes - 12/29/2013
    Front left tire squels
    Front left tire makes a high pitched squel at low speeds but seem to stop at highway speed. Seems to only make sound gojng forward bug not in reverse. Any ideas
     
    • Jimm
      12/29/2013 Jimm
      Check the tire air pressure - make sure the pressure is correct. Second step, check the following items; hub bearing / wheel bearing condition - note any looseness (with the wheel off the ground / suspended), check the front upper strut mounting, and the wheel alignment - any of these could cause the noise you are hearing.
  • charlie ardite
    charlie ardite - 1991 Chrysler New Yorker - Brakes - 11/5/2013
    Front wheel passenger side rattling and grinding.
    when driving slow the front wheel grinds the front brakes and rotors were just replaced
     
  • charlie ardite
    charlie ardite - 1991 Chrysler New Yorker - Brakes - 11/5/2013
    Front pass.side front wheel bearing ys grinding
    yt sounds like the wheel may fall off
     
    0 answer
  • charlie ardite
    charlie ardite - 1991 Chrysler New Yorker - Brakes - 11/5/2013
    Passenger side front wheel bearing is making much noise
    ,aking much noise grinding, may be cv joint ?
     
    0 answer
  • grampavail
    grampavail - 2001 Chrysler Sebring - Brakes - 10/2/2013
    How do I remove and lube the slides on disc brakes calipers
    disc brake calipers on front of car are working properly
     
    • CVO
      10/2/2013 CVO
      Sebring Coupe 1999-2006
      REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
      Brake Caliper

      See this @ www.autozone.com