Auto Answers » Brakes » Chrysler » Page 11

Chrysler brakes repair questions and answers

Post your Chrysler brakes question or share what you know by answering questions

210 Questions
Sort by:
  • maguellie
    maguellie - 2003 Chrysler PT Cruiser - Brakes - 3/13/2011
    How do i find if 2 or 4 wheel anti lock brakes
     
    • CVO
      3/13/2011 CVO
      www.rockauto.com. Hope this help.
  • San
    San - 2007 Chrysler PT Cruiser - Brakes - 3/2/2011
    What is causing a high pitched intermenant squeek & hissing noise?
    brakes are new, Car has about 50,000 miles on it. Car makes a high pitched squeeking noise itermenantly. Also a loud hissing noise. If yu tap the brake pedal - tap tap tap - you get squeek squeek squeek. But it also squeeks while driving and not touching the brake ...
     
    • Bobby
      8/9/2010 Bobby
      if the hissing stops wen opressing the brake then it is in the brake system. try to isolate the hissing. Does it hiss when the car is idling or only when it is moving?

      As for the squeak? when you tap the brake is it the same squeak you are hearing while the car is moving or do they appear to be different squeaks? This can be caused by brake pad vibration if the mechanic did a poor job ion the install, also depending on the type of brake pads the material if they are metallic pads can cause squeaking.
    • San
      8/9/2010 San
      same squeek, and hisses when idling.
    • Bobby
      8/9/2010 Bobby
      the hiss then could be a vacuum leak. try opening the hood and listening for it, then have a friend press the brake real hard and try and isolate where the noise is coming from by listening to it go iin and out.

      Since it is the same squeak I would say the problem is the brake job that was done. Brakes are not supposed to squeak. Reasons for the squeaking could be the: cheap brake pads installed that have poor linnings/material, rotors were not machined properly, or not at all, sloppy pad installation, mechanic didn't clean everything properly, and most likely didn't use any type of stop squeak when installign the pads.
    • San
      8/10/2010 San
      It squeeks when I'm driving and not touching the brakes. In fact it stops when I touch the brakes and squeeks again when I take my foot off the pedal. How can this be the brakes?
    • Blazer
      3/2/2011 Blazer
      Check for a brake pad sensor.
      Depends on the location of the squeeking noise.
      Is this noise in front or back area of the vehicle?
    • HouseCallAuto
      3/2/2011 HouseCallAuto
      Any hissing noise that is loud enough to hear that is thought to be a vacuum leak would have to be a fairly large vacuum leak. That being said, that would mean that there would be a lean code stored in the PCM memory, like P0171. So, check for fault codes with a code reader (buy a $50 code reader) It does sound like you have a wear sensor rubbing a rotor causing the squeaking.
  • supermanrvs
    supermanrvs - 1993 Chrysler New Yorker - Brakes - 3/1/2011
    What is wrong when there is heat and a strange odor around the rear tire on the driver's side?
    I noticed tonight after driving about 30 miles that there was heat coming from the area, the tire and hub cap were even hot but none of the others were, there was also a strange odor similar to burning rubber. What would cause that?
     
    • Blazer
      3/1/2011 Blazer
      First off check your rear brake system & any possible cause at same.
  • chairlady1190
    chairlady1190 - 2001 Chrysler Town & Country - Brakes - 2/28/2011
    Engine light is on - where is the closest shop to 2351 Eisenhower Ave Alex. Va and best shop
     
  • kissel
    kissel - 2005 Chrysler Town & Country - Brakes - 2/27/2011
    Location of the coolant fan relay
     
    • HPI Vorza
      2/27/2011 HPI Vorza
      Driver side Front Radiator Down Low, Like Below Headlight
  • hugh
    hugh - 2000 Chrysler 300M - Brakes - 2/14/2011
    Right front brake won't come off the pad. Heats up and braking is applied.
    Technician thinks it is ABS control module, or wiring harness. 120,000 mi, It happened only once after I tapped the brake pedal to turn off the cruise control.Front right side brake would not release. Mechanic removed the wheel and freed the pad. Has been ok on the ...
     
  • horse and cart
    horse and cart - 1999 Chrysler 300M - Brakes - 2/7/2011
    How do i remove the abs pump
    i want to change the brake lines
     
    • Nissan Technical Advisor
      Disconnect ground cable from the ground stud on the right strut tower. Using a brake pedal positioning tool, depress brake pedal past its first 1 inch of travel and hold in this position.
      Remove or disconnect the following:
      Bolt and 2 nuts securing the speed control servo to vehicle
      The wire harness connector from speed control servo
      Leave the cable attached to the speed control servo, move it out of the way
      Transmission Controller Mounting
      Screw attaching the washer bottle filler neck to the vehicle
      Move the neck to the side without loosening the filler tube
      Nut and bolt holding the transmission controller and bracket to vehicle
      Lift transmission controller up and move away from mounting position
      Primary and secondary brake lines coming from the master cylinder, at the HCU
      Use a crow foot wrench
      Chassis brake lines at the HCU
      Use a crow foot wrench

      CAUTION
      Do not apply a 12-volt power source to any terminals of the 24-way HCU connector when disconnected from the CAB.

      24-way wiring harness connector from the CAB using the following procedure.
      Grasp the lock on the 24-way connector
      Pull it up from the connector as far as possible, unlocking and allowing the 24-way connector to raise out of the socket on the CAB

      Raise vehicle.
      Remove or disconnect the following:
      Left front tire and wheel assembly
      Fasteners securing the inner fender splash shield in place
      Move the splash shield out of the way
      3 bolts attaching the ICU to the mounting bracket
      ICU from its mounting bracket
      Then, remove the ICU from the vehicle by pulling it out around the left side of the mounting bracket, then out through the wheel well

      NOTE: To replace the hydraulic control unit (HCU) or the controller antilock brake (CAB) on this vehicle, the entire integrated control unit (ICU) needs to be removed from the vehicle. The CAB can then be separated from the HCU.

      CAUTION
      Do not attempt to replace the CAB with the ICU mounted in the vehicle.

      ICU from the vehicle
      Pump/motor wiring harness from the CAB
      4 bolts attaching the CAB to the HCU
      Remove the CAB from the HCU.

      To Install:

      Install or connect the following:
      CAB on the HCU.
      4 bolts mounting the CAB to the HCU
      The CAB mounting bolts Torque to: 17 inch. lbs. (2 Nm)
      Pump/motor wiring harness into the CAB
      ICU in the vehicle
      ICU back in the vehicle and attach it to its mounting bracket
      The 3 ICU mounting bolts Torque to: 97 inch. lbs. (11 Nm)
      Inner fender splash shield
      Tire and wheel assembly
      Lower the vehicle.
      Install or connect the following:
      NOTE: Before installing the 24-way connector in the CAB be sure that the seal is properly installed in the connector.

      The 24-way connector into the socket on the CAB is installed using the following procedure;
      Position the 24-way connector in the socket on the CAB
      carefully push it onto CAB as far as it will go
      When connector is fully seated into the CAB socket push in the connector lock as far as it will go.
      This will pull the 24-way connector into the socket on the CAB and lock it in the installed position
      The 4 chassis brake lines on the HCU
      The fittings are Torque to: 145 inch. lbs. (17 Nm)
      Primary and secondary brake lines from the master cylinder to the HCU
      The fittings are Torque to: 145 inch. lbs. (17 Nm)
      Transmission controller
      Washer bottle filler neck to the radiator support
      Speed control servo to its mounting studs and radiator support
      Brake pedal positioning tool
      Remote ground cable

      NOTE: The ICU may need to be initialized using the DRBIII scan tool after installation.

      Bleed the base brakes and the ABS brakes hydraulic system.
      Road test vehicle to ensure proper operation of the base and ABS systems
  • paul
    paul - 2001 Chrysler 300M - Brakes - 1/24/2011
    Brake rotors hot after changing pads
    I just changed pads on all 4 wheels and now when I drive it a couple miles and get up to cruising speed the rotors get hot to the touch. I don't smell any burning and everything looks ok. Is it normal for the rotors to feel hot or does this mean something is wrong?
     
    • J and K AUTOMOTIVE TOWING AND REPAIR
      hi Paul so far from what your question i see no need to worry you are fine rotors do get hot to the touch and as long as you aren't smelling anything from the brake area or see the rotors getting red then you are good to go
      J and K AUTOMOTIVE TOWING AND REPAIR
      1/24/2011 paul
      great. thats what I was hoping to hear. I will drive it and keep and eye on it. Thanks Joe
      J and K AUTOMOTIVE TOWING AND REPAIR
      your welcome PAUL
  • Shel
    Shel - 2005 Chrysler 300 - Brakes - 1/22/2011
    HOW TO CHANGE BRAKE PADS
     
    • J and K AUTOMOTIVE TOWING AND REPAIR
      Safety Tip:
      Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or closed toe shoes.



      1
      Park your vehicle on a solid level surface. Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels.
      2
      Using a jack, lift up the front of your vehicle. Every vehicle comes from the factory with a jack. To locate and properly use this jack, see your owner's manual. The owner's manual will inform you where the recommended jacking location is located.
      3
      Secure the vehicle with jack stands on both sides for safety before starting any work. The pinch welds and the frame are the two best locations. Do not rely on the jack to hold the vehicle up while working.
      4
      Remove the front wheels by removing the lugs nuts that are holding them on. To do this, you will need to find the correct size socket and large ratchet or tire iron and turn them counter clockwise. If your vehicle is equipped with hub caps (plastic covers over the wheels), these will need to be removed to access the lug nuts.
      5
      Locate the brake caliper. Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts or pins.
      6
      Swivel the caliper up and away from the brake rotor and working area. Make sure you do not kink or pinch any brake lines. Do not disconnect the brake line
      7
      Remove the brake pads, lift out any anti squeal shims that may be present.
      8
      Press the caliper piston back into the housing.
      9
      Install the new pads into the caliper in reverse of how they were removed. If you have shims you will need to spray anti-squeak lubricant on the back before installation.
      10
      Install the caliper back onto the brake rotor and torque the caliper bolts to the manufacture specification. Press the brake pedal to move the piston outward.
      11
      Repeat steps 5 through 10 for the other side.
      12
      Install the wheel and torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer's specification in a star pattern.
      13
      Remove jack stands and lower vehicle to the ground.
      14
      Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder. Add fluid if necessary.
      15
      Verify that you have a solid brake pedal. Drive your vehicle at 15mph increments and apply the brakes 2 to 4 times to break in the new pads.
      16
      Road test vehicle, break in new pads.
  • Ken
    Ken - 2003 Chrysler Town & Country - Brakes - 1/21/2011
    How do I replace the rear brake pads
     
    • J and K AUTOMOTIVE TOWING AND REPAIR
      Safety Tip:
      Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or closed toe shoes.

      1
      Secure your vehicle on a level surface, making sure your car will not roll or lean too much when jacked up
      2
      Remove the cap from the brake master cylinder. Using a turkey baster, remove a quarter of the brake fluid from the master cylinder. Lift up the front of your vehicle using a floor jack.
      3
      Secure the vehicle with jack stands on both sides for safety before starting any work. The pinch welds and the frame are the two best locations. Do not rely on the jack to hold the vehicle up while working...
      4
      Remove the front wheels by removing the lugs nuts that are holding them on. To do this you will need to find the correct size socket and large ratchet or tire iron and turn them counter clockwise. If your vehicle is equipped with hub caps (plastic covers over the wheels), these will need to be removed to access the lug nuts.
      5
      Inspect the brake rotors for scoring, grooves, cracks and discoloration.
      6
      With a screwdriver remove the anti-rattle spring on the front of the brake caliper then remove the caliper mounting bolts.
      7
      Slide the brake caliper off of the brake rotor.
      8
      Support the brake caliper up and away from the working area. Make sure you do not kink or pinch any brake lines. Do not disconnect the brake line.
      9
      Remove the brake pads from brake caliper.
      10
      Compress caliper piston using a C-clamp.
      11
      Install the new brake pads in the brake caliper.
      12
      Reinstall the brake caliper.
      13
      Tighten the caliper sliding bolts then install the anti-rattle spring on the front of the brake caliper. Repeat for other side.
      14
      Install wheels and torque to 100 ft. lbs. in a star pattern.
      15
      Refill the brake fluid in the brake master cylinder with new DOT 3 brake fluid and reinstall the cap.
      16
      Road test vehicle, break in new pads.
  • Robert
    Robert - 2000 Chrysler Cirrus - Brakes - 1/21/2011
    Why is the left rear brake doing so much more work than the right rear brake?
    I replaced discs, calipers and pads on the rear on 8/7/10. I drove to and from work on 8/9/10 and at every stop I smelled burning brakes. I did a visual inspection and discovered that the left rear disc had obvious signs of wear (and a bit of smoke coming out) and ...
     
  • mary
    mary - 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser - Brakes - 1/13/2011
    When pressing on the brake peddle, it feels spongy
    recently had wheel bearings replace on the front and the mechanic said brakes were good, but since then have never felt right.
     
    • CVO
      1/13/2011 CVO
      Air got in the brake lines.Need to bleed the brake fluids..
  • lee2
    lee2 - 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser - Brakes - 1/13/2011
    I REPLACED FRONT BRAKE PADS THEY ARE GRINDING LIKE THEY WERE WORN OUT
     
  • Bob M
    Bob M - 1997 Chrysler Cirrus - Brakes - 1/4/2011
    Can't get a solid brake pedal. System has been bleed.New wheel cyl and calibers and master cyl. Have power flushed syst
    system. Could problem be with proportion valve. What does it do? Cab brake system be diagnosed via computer scan
     
    • yboy82
      1/4/2011 yboy82
      Is your brake system equipped with ABS?
      yboy82
      1/4/2011 yboy82
      If your vehicle is equipped with ABS you need a DRB scan tool or its equivalent to bleed you ABS system
    • Bob M
      1/4/2011 Bob M
      yboy82- many thanks -will give it a try
    • yboy82
      1/4/2011 yboy82
      Bleeding procedure

      Locate first the diagnostic connector under the dash panel next to the left kick panel. And then connect the DRB scan tool to the connector. Install the correct cartridge for the Anti-Lock Brake systems. Check to make sure the CAB or ABS-ECU does not have any fault codes stored in it. If it does, remove them using the DRB scan tool.

      You should bleed the base brake system using the non-ABS manual or pressure bleeding method (but you said you already bleed your brake). Be sure to bleed the brake system in the correct sequence.
      Utilizing the scan tool, go to the "Bleed ABS" routine. Firmly apply the brake pedal to initiate the "Bleed ABS" cycle one time. Release the brake pedal. And then using the scan tool, go on to bleed the Anti-Lock Brake System according to the scan tool literature.

      Once bleeding with the scan tool is complete, repeat the conventional bleed procedure for the base brake system.
      Perform this procedure until the brake fluid flows clear and free of air bubbles. Check brake fluid level periodically to prevent the reservoir from running low on fluid. Top off the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level with DOT 3 type brake fluid only.

      You should take your vehicle for a road test to check for proper brake system operation.
    • yboy82
      1/4/2011 yboy82
      You're Welcome Bob M =)
  • E. Robison
    E. Robison - 2005 Chrysler PT Cruiser - Brakes - 12/28/2010
    The "brake on" indicator comes on every time I start up even though the brake is NOT on then goes off after a few secs
    - is this anything to worry about? My engine light comes on and stays on (indicating a gas pressure leak) after ananalyzer diagnosis and reset too so I thought this new problem might just be another (apparently) computer "glitch."
     
    • yboy82
      12/28/2010 yboy82
      Try to check your brake fluid level sometimes your brake light will ON if your fluid level is insufficient. Also try to diagnose your vehicle with a scan tool again your check engine light might be indicating a new set of stored trouble code.
    • James Vaughn
      12/28/2010 James Vaughn
      the gas pressur leak sounds like a loose gas cap code that was stored even after the problem was corrected. your ecm will store this code for some time. the brake light staying on sounds like eihter a diagnostic test from your ecm or the first signs of an abs module that is going to fail.