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Chrysler brakes repair questions and answers

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  • San
    San - 2007 Chrysler PT Cruiser - Brakes - 5/7/2011
    What is causing a high pitched intermenant squeek & hissing noise?
    brakes are new, Car has about 50,000 miles on it. Car makes a high pitched squeeking noise itermenantly. Also a loud hissing noise. If yu tap the brake pedal - tap tap tap - you get squeek squeek squeek. But it also squeeks while driving and not touching the brake ...
    • Catharine
      5/7/2011 Catharine
      It could be the rotors. They are either warpped or worn out. I have had my brakes changed but I need to put new rotors because they are worn out. When I had my brakes changed they did something but I can't remember what it is called to smooth out the rotors. My mechanic said they still had some use but I have that sqeeking problem too.
  • renee
    • Bill
      5/1/2011 Bill
      Sounds like. How does it feel. Does vehicle move?
  • Russ
    Russ - 1998 Chrysler Concorde - Brakes - 4/30/2011
    How do you reset the dummy light for the ABS system
    The ABS dummy light came on after a resent tire rotation the brakes work and feel fine how do Ii reset the dummy light
    • HouseCallAuto
      4/30/2011 HouseCallAuto
      The light will not reset until the cause is repaired. If the ABS light is on it is not because you rotated the tires. There are fault codes stored that relate to the cause. So, call it a dummy light all you want but it is on for a reason.
  • dominick
    dominick - 1992 Chrysler Imperial - Brakes - 4/30/2011
    When applying brakes. fluid is pushed up thru both master cylinder caps.Is my booster creating to much pressure?
    69,000 mile young. when someone pushes on the brakes you can see fluid coming out of master cylinder caps.
  • Rich
    Rich - 2003 Chrysler Concorde - Brakes - 4/20/2011
    Installing front brake pad abutment clips on lower guide rail with grooves worn in at pad contact ?
    I'm replacing the front rotors & pads on 2003 Chry. concorde LXi /c ABS. The lower pad guide rail has goove worn in where the old pads contacted it. The new Centric pads came with small abutment shims. with instructions to intall them on the bottom tang of the pad. ...
    0 answer
  • tazz
    tazz - 1998 Chrysler Sebring - Brakes - 4/5/2011
    Slotted&drilled rotors what pad is the best ceramic,organic,or ?
  • philip
    philip - 2000 Chrysler Town & Country - Brakes - 3/16/2011
    Can someone send me instruction on how to change the front brake rotors and pads to ;
    this is for a 2000 Chrysler town and country Lxi 6 cyl 3.8L f/w with track control
      go to advance auto parts and pick up a haynes book there it will show you how and you will have the book for future reference book is $25.00................good luck
      3/18/2011 philip
      thanks but i had someone down load theirs to me for free...............................
  • jenn_707cali
    jenn_707cali - 2004 Chrysler Sebring - Brakes - 3/15/2011
    When stopped and is idling for sometimes less then a min. my car starts to rattle bad, mainly in steering wheel, why?
    also when push the brakes i hear almost like a sho sho sho either like something is rubbing or i need new breaks. but the sound don't happen when turning the wheel so i am pretty sure not rubbing. could it be the breaks or something else? if so what?
    • Nissan Technical Advisor
      The sho sho noise could be the brake booster has a vacuum leak. The engine is idling bad possibly due to a vacuum leak (which may be related to brake booster vacuum leak), faulty idle air control valve or throttle position sensor. Inspect the brake booster for vacuum leak and have the engine scanned for stored trouble codes. Post the codes here so we can translate them and give repair recommendations.
  • maguellie
    maguellie - 2003 Chrysler PT Cruiser - Brakes - 3/13/2011
    How do i find if 2 or 4 wheel anti lock brakes
    • CVO
      3/13/2011 CVO Hope this help.
  • San
    San - 2007 Chrysler PT Cruiser - Brakes - 3/2/2011
    What is causing a high pitched intermenant squeek & hissing noise?
    brakes are new, Car has about 50,000 miles on it. Car makes a high pitched squeeking noise itermenantly. Also a loud hissing noise. If yu tap the brake pedal - tap tap tap - you get squeek squeek squeek. But it also squeeks while driving and not touching the brake ...
    • Bobby
      8/9/2010 Bobby
      if the hissing stops wen opressing the brake then it is in the brake system. try to isolate the hissing. Does it hiss when the car is idling or only when it is moving?

      As for the squeak? when you tap the brake is it the same squeak you are hearing while the car is moving or do they appear to be different squeaks? This can be caused by brake pad vibration if the mechanic did a poor job ion the install, also depending on the type of brake pads the material if they are metallic pads can cause squeaking.
    • San
      8/9/2010 San
      same squeek, and hisses when idling.
    • Bobby
      8/9/2010 Bobby
      the hiss then could be a vacuum leak. try opening the hood and listening for it, then have a friend press the brake real hard and try and isolate where the noise is coming from by listening to it go iin and out.

      Since it is the same squeak I would say the problem is the brake job that was done. Brakes are not supposed to squeak. Reasons for the squeaking could be the: cheap brake pads installed that have poor linnings/material, rotors were not machined properly, or not at all, sloppy pad installation, mechanic didn't clean everything properly, and most likely didn't use any type of stop squeak when installign the pads.
    • San
      8/10/2010 San
      It squeeks when I'm driving and not touching the brakes. In fact it stops when I touch the brakes and squeeks again when I take my foot off the pedal. How can this be the brakes?
    • Blazer
      3/2/2011 Blazer
      Check for a brake pad sensor.
      Depends on the location of the squeeking noise.
      Is this noise in front or back area of the vehicle?
    • HouseCallAuto
      3/2/2011 HouseCallAuto
      Any hissing noise that is loud enough to hear that is thought to be a vacuum leak would have to be a fairly large vacuum leak. That being said, that would mean that there would be a lean code stored in the PCM memory, like P0171. So, check for fault codes with a code reader (buy a $50 code reader) It does sound like you have a wear sensor rubbing a rotor causing the squeaking.
  • supermanrvs
    supermanrvs - 1993 Chrysler New Yorker - Brakes - 3/1/2011
    What is wrong when there is heat and a strange odor around the rear tire on the driver's side?
    I noticed tonight after driving about 30 miles that there was heat coming from the area, the tire and hub cap were even hot but none of the others were, there was also a strange odor similar to burning rubber. What would cause that?
    • Blazer
      3/1/2011 Blazer
      First off check your rear brake system & any possible cause at same.
  • chairlady1190
    chairlady1190 - 2001 Chrysler Town & Country - Brakes - 2/28/2011
    Engine light is on - where is the closest shop to 2351 Eisenhower Ave Alex. Va and best shop
  • kissel
    kissel - 2005 Chrysler Town & Country - Brakes - 2/27/2011
    Location of the coolant fan relay
    • HPI Vorza
      2/27/2011 HPI Vorza
      Driver side Front Radiator Down Low, Like Below Headlight
  • hugh
    hugh - 2000 Chrysler 300M - Brakes - 2/14/2011
    Right front brake won't come off the pad. Heats up and braking is applied.
    Technician thinks it is ABS control module, or wiring harness. 120,000 mi, It happened only once after I tapped the brake pedal to turn off the cruise control.Front right side brake would not release. Mechanic removed the wheel and freed the pad. Has been ok on the ...
  • horse and cart
    horse and cart - 1999 Chrysler 300M - Brakes - 2/7/2011
    How do i remove the abs pump
    i want to change the brake lines
    • Nissan Technical Advisor
      Disconnect ground cable from the ground stud on the right strut tower. Using a brake pedal positioning tool, depress brake pedal past its first 1 inch of travel and hold in this position.
      Remove or disconnect the following:
      Bolt and 2 nuts securing the speed control servo to vehicle
      The wire harness connector from speed control servo
      Leave the cable attached to the speed control servo, move it out of the way
      Transmission Controller Mounting
      Screw attaching the washer bottle filler neck to the vehicle
      Move the neck to the side without loosening the filler tube
      Nut and bolt holding the transmission controller and bracket to vehicle
      Lift transmission controller up and move away from mounting position
      Primary and secondary brake lines coming from the master cylinder, at the HCU
      Use a crow foot wrench
      Chassis brake lines at the HCU
      Use a crow foot wrench

      Do not apply a 12-volt power source to any terminals of the 24-way HCU connector when disconnected from the CAB.

      24-way wiring harness connector from the CAB using the following procedure.
      Grasp the lock on the 24-way connector
      Pull it up from the connector as far as possible, unlocking and allowing the 24-way connector to raise out of the socket on the CAB

      Raise vehicle.
      Remove or disconnect the following:
      Left front tire and wheel assembly
      Fasteners securing the inner fender splash shield in place
      Move the splash shield out of the way
      3 bolts attaching the ICU to the mounting bracket
      ICU from its mounting bracket
      Then, remove the ICU from the vehicle by pulling it out around the left side of the mounting bracket, then out through the wheel well

      NOTE: To replace the hydraulic control unit (HCU) or the controller antilock brake (CAB) on this vehicle, the entire integrated control unit (ICU) needs to be removed from the vehicle. The CAB can then be separated from the HCU.

      Do not attempt to replace the CAB with the ICU mounted in the vehicle.

      ICU from the vehicle
      Pump/motor wiring harness from the CAB
      4 bolts attaching the CAB to the HCU
      Remove the CAB from the HCU.

      To Install:

      Install or connect the following:
      CAB on the HCU.
      4 bolts mounting the CAB to the HCU
      The CAB mounting bolts Torque to: 17 inch. lbs. (2 Nm)
      Pump/motor wiring harness into the CAB
      ICU in the vehicle
      ICU back in the vehicle and attach it to its mounting bracket
      The 3 ICU mounting bolts Torque to: 97 inch. lbs. (11 Nm)
      Inner fender splash shield
      Tire and wheel assembly
      Lower the vehicle.
      Install or connect the following:
      NOTE: Before installing the 24-way connector in the CAB be sure that the seal is properly installed in the connector.

      The 24-way connector into the socket on the CAB is installed using the following procedure;
      Position the 24-way connector in the socket on the CAB
      carefully push it onto CAB as far as it will go
      When connector is fully seated into the CAB socket push in the connector lock as far as it will go.
      This will pull the 24-way connector into the socket on the CAB and lock it in the installed position
      The 4 chassis brake lines on the HCU
      The fittings are Torque to: 145 inch. lbs. (17 Nm)
      Primary and secondary brake lines from the master cylinder to the HCU
      The fittings are Torque to: 145 inch. lbs. (17 Nm)
      Transmission controller
      Washer bottle filler neck to the radiator support
      Speed control servo to its mounting studs and radiator support
      Brake pedal positioning tool
      Remote ground cable

      NOTE: The ICU may need to be initialized using the DRBIII scan tool after installation.

      Bleed the base brakes and the ABS brakes hydraulic system.
      Road test vehicle to ensure proper operation of the base and ABS systems