The snow is effecting the ABS speed sensor that is attached to the wheel

The wheel should come off after removing all the lug nuts. Try jarring it with your foot.

Before you did the brakes, did you have a normal brake pedal? Just want to verify that the problem only began after replacing the brakes and calipers. A scanner is not needed. Brake bleeding has remained unchanged over the years. Try bleeding this way..... fill the master, open the R/FRT bleeder screw, have someone step down to the floor with the brake pedal, while they are holding the pedal on the floor put the tip of your finger on the bleeder screw, have the person let up on the pedal and then remove your finger, repeat this over and over and you should have a steady stream of brake fluid coming out after a few tries. Close the bleeder screw while holding the pedal to the floor when you have had at least 4 solid streams of brake fluid come out. Repeat this to the L/FRT and to the rears if needed.

You have to recheck the passenger side caliper and fix the rattle. Why did you bleed the brakes, were the calipers replaced?

Hi Amanda, definitely it will affect your braking performance. The worst of it, you will possibly have a leak and will lost brake. You are prone to accident. Better fix this immediately before deciding to drive that car again.

The dual master cylinder has two separate hydraulic pistons and two fluid reservoirs. The top part of the two reservoirs are connecting together.Adding the fluid to the front, it will supply the fluid to the second. I hope that will give you the right idea.

BLEEDING SEQUENCE.
1.Rear right wheel cylinder.
2.Rear left wheel cylinder
3.Front right caliper.
4.Front left caliper.
Now put one end of the hose onto the nipple and put the other end into the glass jar. Have Friend pressurize the system by pumping the brake pedal 20 times, then hold it down hard to keep the pressure in there. Open the bleeder screw to a quarter of a turn. Fluid and air will shoot out into the jar. Friend's foot willl sink with the pedal to the floor.Close the bleeder screw quickly; it should be open only for 1 second. Have Friend pump 7 more times and hold. Open the brake bleeder screw for one second again , then close it. Continue pumping and bleeding until you're satisfied there no more air in the line. I hope that help and be safe.

Check the brake light switch on the upper part of the brake pedal assembly.

Hmmmm...thats kinda odd.....what tires are you using?

this is usually a speed sensor in one of the wheels. But you should first get a scanner thatt can read abs codes and see what the code is it should narrow it down so we can find out what the problem is.

Im thinking its t he Brake Master Cylinder thats faulty

Check out this link that i discovered

http://www.ifitjams.com/braking.htm

brake hose, loosen the line going to the hose if ya got fluid , theres the answer

pull teh bleeder screw all the way out and look to see if it is clogged.

trying to catch up on answers.
see if you get fluid out with the bleeder completely out of the caliper. i've seen some calipers get clogged up every now and then. i've also seen a bad master cylinder cause this. but it's anyone's guess on here.

What? Please rephrase your question

Thanks

Todd, try doing a gravety bleed by filling the brake fluid first and then opening the rear bleaders first for 20 minutes then close them making sure all all times that the brake fluid is full, then open the front caliper bleeders for 20 minutes.