1) Turn the ignition key on with the windows up. Listen for a soft, brief whirring sound - it might last for just a second or two. If you hear this sound, it means the fuel pump is working. If you don't hear it on the inside, listen for it on the outside; remove the fuel filler cap, depress the spring-loaded door in the filler neck and have someone else turn on the ignition while you listen.

2) If you don't hear the fuel pump, check the fuel pump fuse and relay within which are located in the engine fuse box. Check the wiring to the fuel pump if the fuse and relay are good. If the wiring is good also, you likely have a bad fuel pump.

3) Have the powertrain control module (PCM) checked if the fuel pump runs continuously while the ignition key is on. The PCM should only be looked over by a qualified service or repair shop.

4) Relieve the pressure from the fuel system before proceeding further. Unscrew the fuel cap and remove the fuel pump relay from the fuse box. Crank the engine for a few seconds and wait for it to start and quickly stall (or it might not start at all).

5) Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel pressure test port on the fuel supply rail (remove the port's cap). The gauge needs an adapter that will connect to the test port's Schrader valve.

6) Turn the ignition key to the "On" position. Check the pressure on the gauge. The pressure should be 60 to 66 pounds per square inch for a V6 engine. On V8 engines, the pressure should be 48 to 54 psi for engines that take E-85 ethanol gas and 55 to 62 for the others.

7) Check for restrictions in the fuel system, including the fuel filter and inlet strainer, if the pressure is lower than it should be. If there are no restrictions, you likely have a bad fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump. Replace the pressure regulator if the pressure is higher than specified.

8) Disconnect and inspect all lines in the fuel system, including the fuel supply and return lines and the Evaporative Emission Control vapor lines. Replace any lines that are dry, cracked or leaking. Look for any dirt in the lines and blow it out with compressed air.

The dual exhuast systems are typically mage for a specific model year, design and engine for a specific vehicle. Check these on-line auto parts and exhaust system / aftermarket sources for the specific applications and correct fit for your vehicle; www.autoanything.com, www.jcwhitney.com, www.carid.com - to list only a few sources.

The radiator cooling fans not operating is due to several possibilities; faulty cooling fan switch (temperature sensor), faulty fan relay, faulty fan fuse or wiring / connections to the cooling fans, faulty cooling fan motor.

As a diagnosis and first step run a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the radiator fan motor - to see if the motor operates. If yes, then suspect the wirning / connection, fuse or relay in the circuit. If the motor still does not operate with the 12V supply direct, then suspect the radiator fan motor is faulty.

Check the many on-line auto parts sources, such as; www.autopartswarehouse or www.rockauto.com for the replacement parts. For example, they (RockAuto) list the radiator fan assembly (with motor and shroud) from around $60.00 for your vehicle.

The radiator cooling fans not operating is due to several possibilities; faulty cooling fan switch (temperature sensor), faulty fan relay, faulty fan fuse or wiring / connections to the cooling fans, faulty cooling fan motor.

As a diagnosis and first step run a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the radiator fan motor - to see if the motor operates. If yes, then suspect the wirning / connection, fuse or relay in the circuit. If the motor still does not operate with the 12V supply direct, then suspect the radiator fan motor is faulty.

Check the many on-line auto parts sources, such as; www.autopartswarehouse or www.rockauto.com for the replacement parts. For example, they (RockAuto) list the radiator fan assembly (with motor and shroud) from around $60.00 for your vehicle.

Sounds like this repair should be taken up with the dealership that performed the recall work.

Have the dealership provide the kit part number and contents. Then, you will need to determine where exactly the fuel leak did originate from. The leak may or may not be from result of the repair performed.
Keep in mind that two years time - things may have changed; repairs and parts wear, move and change over time - there is not enough details provided at this point to make a reasonable determination.

do u have fuel injectors? and /or try your gas filter. i guess you have found out what those codes are...follow the parts related could be a smaller problem.. tune up ,ignition system..i.e plugs ,distributer cap and coil.. just ideas..good luck !!!

http://www.fixya.com/.../...iagram_94_caprice

Is the security light is on ? no,
Try this tip.
First, check the battery and starter cables for their tightness or free of corrosion and physical damaged.

See this Starting system simplified diagram. Have a help from an assistant to crank the engine, use a 12 volt light tester or a digital voltmeter, apply it to the starter control circuit.
If there is light or 12 volts and the starter isn't cranking, then the starter is the culprit. Have the starter to bench test for free at the local auto parts stores.
If there isn't no light or no volts, then the ignition switch is the culprit.
Check the starter relay and position the Automatic transmission shifter in neutral.

http://www.samarins.com/glossary/starter.html

Note: a 3/4 charge battery is 12.50 volts
A discharge battery is 11.75 volts.
A battery under a cranking load and it is reading less than 7 volts,it will be a recycled battery.

How hot is it getting in degrees F? When the problem occurs, is the cooling fan working? If you turn on the ac does the fan run?

I realize anymore, the temp gage on the dash may just read cold and hot not actual degrees. Some makes and models, the radiator fan won't turn on till about 220 degrees.

Have a helper crank it while you visually check for spark at the spark plugs. How long since a tune-up?