I think you either used the wrong bulb, or it's just a coincidence and has nothing to do with changing the bulb.

check the fuse labeled sir in the fuse panel under your hood with the car running i had a simular problem and that was what it was

It is too high. It needs to be checked. I might expect a temp of as high as 225 in worst case.

Bad blend door actuator on the driver side.

That's exactly what I thought, but I was proven wrong. They did a flush of my system by the entrance of the a/c lines going thru the firewall in the engine compartment. I heard the puff sound as the system was unclogged. They then flush the chemical out with a little bit of freon and let it dry for about 15 minutes. The accumulator was replaced and the system charged with freon, and to my suprise all vents where trowing nice cold air when it was done. Total cost of parts and freon $ 92.00.

The ignition lock cylinder on the '92 Cadillac has a very tiny wire pair that is attached to it that goes down the steering column and plugs into a security module which reads the value of the resistor pellet embedded in the key that you see. It is possible that this lock cylinder needs replacement and the wires that are cut behind the radio may not be related because this wire is enclosed within the steering column. Here is a pic >> http://www.google.com/imgres

Attach a code reader to the data link connector under the dash and read the fault codes and re-post.

You check the oil level by checking the oil level at the dipstick and not by the 21% life left (this is not oil level).

CATALYTIC CONVERTER PLUGGED..TO VERIFY HAVE SOME BODY STEP ON GAS WHILE YOU COVER OUTPIPE WITH YOUR PALM IF NOT PLUGGED IT WILL BLOW YOUR HAND AWAY IF PLUGGED YOU SHOULB BE ABLE TO BLOCK PIPE ... SIMPLE TEST MAKE SURE CAR IS NOT TO HOT ,,...

Not according to my sources. The idle control valve plays a completely different part in running the engine via the ECM (computer). Engine control Module=ECM. The TPS is a potentiometer. It will set a code in you DIC=driver information center. You can check the Throttle position sensor by doing the following; connect a voltmeter to the REF treminal (+) (gray wire) and the GND (-) or black wire coming from the ECM to the sensor , with the key in the "ON" position, but NOT with the engine actually running. check the voltage. If the voltage is NOT ~5 volts then the TPS is no good. Just replace it. Looking at the connector from above with the EGR valve on the right, the GND is at top left , the REF is at top right and SIG is on the very bottom. Don't worry if you have the wrong colored lead on the wrong wire (the voltmeter will either read (+) or (-) 5 volts. with an old fashioned voltmeter (analog) the needle will go backwards , just change lead probe positions.

has it jumped timing? what happened before? when you changed distributer did you mark it and reset timing? what was changed the hole distributor module and all?

May need to replacefuel filter and PCV valve too.May be time to remove the throttle body and clean it using intake and throttle body cleaner NOT carbureator cleaner.
Injectors may be a little clogged.Try running a tank treated with a total fuel system cleaner additive.NOT the cheapie injector cleaners.
If it persists still then look for a vacuum leak.Inspect all vacuum lines
If over 100K mi. I recommend replacing the O2 sensors(upstream)
Could also be a fault in the emission system....see if there are any codes stored
Good Luck and hope it runs better than new! God Speed

The P0430 code is indicating that the Bank 2 catalytic converter is no good. Replace both. Odds of the cause being other than the cat are low. That may or may not help the hesitation but you have to del with the cat issue first.

there's allot of things that might cause this Does it rattel when normal operating temp? Lose power?
1# check Oil sensor and wire to it. check guage..may be bad ...check oil filter .
2# check for oil leaks around engine
3# if it has oil lines "cooler" make sure they are clear and not blocked/plugged up
4# make sure oil pump is free and not locked up.."in a bine"
5# oil holes in block might be plugged up.
6# worse case bad berrings Cam or Crank..Rod.too much clearance..worn..

The engine will run with a bad cam sensor, not optimum but will start and run. If It were my car I would replace the crank sensor because there is a extremely high failure rate of crank sensors on this vehicle. Many, many. Do that first.

There is no cheap fix. How does the mechanic know that it does not just need head gaskets?

Read the fault codes stored. This is the place to begin. Repost with codes.