Hope this helps, this is the best i can find with diagrams upto 2004 only unfortunately.

http://www.ledfix.com/brakelightremoval.html

Heres a link to the forum i am in
http://www.cadillacforum.com/forum/showthread.php

u have 11 in. also check the rear wheel cylinders they leaked.

the starter selinoid isnt operateing properly.they tested it but did they make sure the selinoid was kicking in and out.i would replace the starter if old if newer replace the selinoid.gl

SECURITY INFO
http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

this starter is operated by a centrifical spring loaded engagment gear , if its spinning but not engaging the starter motor is good , the starter drive has to be replaced and it is a replaceable part

guys the starter is spining, problem is the selinoid is not engauging the fly wheel.

Yes of course I agree with all the answers here. I think that our poster also needs to know why this happened after just having the key on to run the radio while he worked on speakers in the trunk. Cadman59, i have no clue why. Just your luck maybe.

if it was the security light.the starter wouldnt do anything and if the engagment gear is controlled buy the selinoid. i agree with hca just bad luck.the seloniod is a funny thing.some times it works and sometimes it doesnt.you can try to tap test it with small hammer it may engauge.gl

depends on which position the key was on also.....acc....or run

I wasn't privy to former answers. Sorry.

Try to navigate to this link for the parts http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/ and use the Find a Shop feature of AutoMD ( http://www.automd.com/shops/) to see a list of shops near you with their address telephone # and labor rate per hour. You can call a couple of them to compare prices in labor cost when you bought the needed parts online.

Unless you have a shimmy when applying the brakes just replace the brake pads. I am doing this 35 years. Your CTS is an '08 and this is likely the first brake pad change. Unless that you went too far with the brake pad wear and started grinding the rotors, you do not have to replace the rotors. At the dealer, this add on will probably amount to $400 more easily and you don't need em. Forget what they said about 2mm left (that is likely BS). I know how rotors hold up and an '08 CTS cannot have rusted the rotors too badly in 3 years, no way. I say pads only, replace.

Uless you let them ream you! (:

The labor guide makes no mention of that detail, but in th realm of things, if I did a booster on a vehicle for X amount of dollars and I found out afterwards that I also had to bleed the brakes, I would not increase the cost for such a relatively small thing that adds nothing but 10 minutes of added labor. If someone added add'l ? dollars for brake bleeding then all I can say is that they shot themselves in the foot.

Make sure pads are OEM and check your wheel alignment if correct.

u need to replace the brake hose to the caliper gl

flex hose probably plugged internally

You'll have to remove the tires and wheels and perform a complete inspection, It could be a caliper, hose, line, fitting, master cylinder, etc

Your vehicle is equipped with front and rear brake disc.

Most of the e-brake lever is positioned beside or at the back of shift lever, or it was also located at the bottom side of the dash panel at driver's side either left or right. To release it has a release button to press or with the one located under the steering wheel has to turn counter clockwise to disengage the e-brake.

Been there... It doesn't exist...! The car knows if you have your E-brake on and will "automatically" release it when in gear.. the selonoid responsible for that is not working.. BUT, You can release it manually by pressing a disengage button on the mechanical assembly to the left of your feet. I had the same problem.

these parts are called the proportioning valves god bless

probably an abs sensor

Most of the e-brake lever is positioned beside or at the back of shift lever, or it was also located at the bottom side of the dash panel at driver's side either left or right. To release it has a release button to press or with the one located under the steering wheel has to turn counter clockwise to disengage the e-brake.

The brakes generate heat, and there may be something on the pads or rotors (brake fluid, oil, grease). All the wheels need to be removed, and the brakes inspected.

u need to swirl grind rotors

Tools and Materials

* Sensor
* Socket wrench
* Torque wrench
* Lubricant
* Wire brush
* Jack

Step 1 - Raise the Car

Start out by raising the car so that you can get to the wheel. The best way to do this is to use a jack and lift up the car by the wheel that you are going to work on.
Step 2 - Remove the Wheel

At this point, you need to remove the wheel. Use the socket wrench to take off the tire and the wheel. Then you will have to use the socket wrench to take the brake rotor off. You can then take the sensor clips off of the frame.
Step 3 - Remove Sensor

Once you have reached this point, you should be able to take the sensor directly out. Then take your wire brush and clean the mounting area.
Step 4 - Install New Sensor

Then apply some lubricant to the area. At that point, you can put the new sensor in the opening and reattach everything the same way that you took it off.