The PCV valve is serviced by replacement of the rocker arm cover. Is there a reason you want to replace the valve such as just maintenance because you used to change the valve on other vehicles years ago? Otherwise, if no problem leave it be.

Huge question. Check the coolant level to start with.

try checking throttle position sensor, that sends signal on location of throttle to the computer.

good answer, but not the cause of problem. Sorry Idid not mention that in neutral engine does rev. but in drive vehicle only gets to about 10mph. no matter what postion the gas pedal is in, and engine rpms do not increase either.But aftersitting for a bit all in fine.

You did not give any details. Why was the new ignition put in? Which parts were changed? Did the no-start begine after changing the ignition? Cmon...

no tiene suficiente energia

nesecito la llave de ensendido del motor de un coche buick 1996

key code Ensenada a 1996 model Buick

No hablo espanol Jose. English?

what does it sound like when it is trying to start? I would say check fuel pressure first sounds like the vehicle is loosing fuel pressure if this is the case then it could be a weak fuel pump or a clogged fuel filter.

this is caused by timeing problems,if you have a timeing belt change it,if you have a timeing chain it must be changed.

your timeing belt or chain need to be replaced.had that problem before

so i see now i'm waiting for myself to answer my own question this is a great site

if the fan is electric and the engine is hot IE normal operating temperature it will run with the engine off and the key out of the ignition for a little while till the engine / coolant is cooled down

It could be a variety of things, a leak in the radiator, a leak in either the upper or lower radiator hoses, the hoses to the heater for the interion of the car, the freeze plugs on either side of the engine are leaking, the water pump is shot, and any one of these would cause your car to loose water to the cooling of the engine and cause the engine to overheat. It might even be a stuck thermostat not allowing the water to flow through the engine to cool it therefore overheating the water stuck in the engine to the boiling point and forcing the coolant to overflow from the radiator into the overflow coolant canister filling it up to the top of the canister and then out into the street.

Another reason could be that using the air conditioner causes the engine to get more hot than not using the air conditioner because when the air conditioner is on, the engine has to run the compressor for the air conditoning system. When you stop your car and turn off the air conditioning, the water from the condenser part of the system will drip from the air conditioning system to the ground and give you the impression that you have a water leak in the engine. The water coming from the air conditioner condenser is perfectly healthy and indicates that the system is working perfectly. A way to check if that is the problem, look at the water that leaked on the driveway, if the water is a greenish color, it probably is a problem in the first paragraph, but if it is clear and when you taste it it taste just like regular water, then it is just the air conditioner condenser drain and everything is fine.

The cooling system for the engine is very complex and needs to have an expert check it out, with an older car it is sometimes just better to have all the hoses replaced at the same time rather than one at a time and maybe replacing the thermostat as well along with checking the water pump for wear or leaks.

Good luck, but you can check out the water on the ground first to determine whether it is antifreeze or plain water.

how many miles on the car has there ever been work done on the motor? An older vehicle like this i would say its probably wearing down if the motor has never been rebuilt.

have you checked for the code yet is it the same thing or is it something different causing the light to come on?

You will need to secure your vehicle on jack stands to gain easy access to the starter. You can jack up the vehicle one front wheel at a time and either place a suitable jack stand under a strong chassis point or if you have the ability to raise the car high enough, you can place a car ramp under each tire.

Ask an assistant to attempt to start the vehicle when he or she hears you begin tapping on the starter case with a small hammer or mallet. Use care not to distort the starter case by smacking it too hard. Very often the starter will begin to crank over after the first hammer blow and the engine will start. If this happens, you have just diagnosed conclusively that the starter is bad and needs replacement.
Did the starter motor crank when you tapped it?
O Yes – replace the starter
O No - continue diagnostics

Using a 12 volt test lamp attach the one end to any good unpainted metal, even a bolt head somewhere under the vehicle. Just see that the attachment is tight and does not wobble when you move the test light wire. Now look at the starter wiring that attaches to the starter solenoid which is attached to the starter. You will notice that there are two wires that come to the starter and attach to the starter. One wire is a fat diameter (like battery cable) and the other is much smaller in diameter. The fat one should have 12 volts all the time, so if you take the pointer of the test light and reach up and touch just that attachment point anywhere on the metal end of that wire or the threaded stud that it is attached to, the test light should light up. This verifies that the starter is receiving battery power. The other wire is the start wire. This wire should only light the test light when the ignition key is turned to start the engine. This is what will diagnose the bad starter. Take the pointer of the test light and touch it to the small wire at the starter attachment point threaded stud. It is important to remember that except for a few exceptions, modern cars have just two wires that go to them. You may see a third wire that connects the starter to the solenoid. That wire is ignored. Just check the wires that go from the wiring harness to the starter. There are just two, the fat one and the skinny one. Sometimes they are attached close to each other within an inch and on some starters they are a few inches separated. If the small wire has a connector made of plastic that slips into another connector, you can depress the tab and remove the small wire and stick the pointer into the end of that disconnected wire. Now have your assistant turn the key to start the engine and see if the test light lights up. If it does light up, you have just conclusively diagnosed a bad starter because the starter is receiving 12 volts on the big wire (you checked) and the small wire is receiving 12 volts when you try to start the engine.

Power is not getting to the stater, but I put remote starter button where I could push it and it would crank the motor over. with the key on it would try to start but the elec. fuel pump is not working. The PASS KEY box has been taken out and I'm trying to put it back where it belongs but have not been able to find out where it plugs in at. Can you help me out with this? I also think the neutral saftety switch is bad.

sounds like you've got water in the oil. Could be a gasket leak somewhere. Not a good sign. Major repair.