Either you have a rusted through brake line which you would see dripping when pumping pedal or you are bleeding the brakes wrong. Your description of feeling like you have brakes with the car off - Do not let this confuse you, this is normal when the brake booster is not assisting with the pedal effort. the brake booster absolutely cannot cause this condition you have so do not replace it. Could be a master but my gut says no. Bleed all 4 wheels until each one emits a nice steady stream like a water fountain. I assume that you have the rear brake adjustment close.

First check the fluid level at the master cylinder.
If brake pedal goes all the way down most likely u lost the brake fluid due to a leak.
Check the brake lines from the master cylinder for leaks.
Check at each wheel the brake lines and the flexible hoses to the calipers,if something leaks should be wet.
Check under the car for leaks in the brake lines.
If all that looks ok the leak may be from the master cylinder,brake fluid leaks past the master cylinder seals into the brake booster.
Hissing sound upon pedal application may be caused by a faulty brake booster diaphragm.

Did you replace the front brakes? The front brake rotors need to be machined or replaced.

Need more information - are you refering to the brake caliper bracket bolts? If yes, then the torque specification is; 129 ft / lbs. The brake guide pin bolts are; 64 nM or 30 ft / lbs torque.

You should diagnose your vehicle with a scan tool/code reader capable of reading ABS troublecode to determine what the stored troublecode is. The extracted troublecode will help your identify the fault of your warning lights.

turns out it was loose wires on a speed sensor in the ABS/antilock brake system. Cost $18.50 labor to fix after the diagnose code fee.All the lights went off - yea!

See this FIG : Indicators and Stop Lamp Switch(c) (2003).
The stop lamp ABS switch is connected to the electronic brake control module ( EBCM ), that may be the problem.

http://www.autozone.com/.../...rGuideContent.jsp

Maybe the brake switch is stuck?

Unhook the negative connection to the battery and leave it off for 15 minutes. The reconnect it. You will need to fix the time and radio channels but normally the computer is reset.

There is nothing at the front rotors that can cause the speedometer to fail. The only thing there is a wheel speed sensor for the abs brakes. There is no relationship between the speedometer and the front wheels. there is also no adjustment at all. if your brakes squeak some, give it a few days for the pads and rotors to break in and seat. The speedometer is controlled by the vehicle speed sensor located on the transmission and generally not even within easy reach.

You should check the thinkness and it is possible that the scrapping sound is from your brake pad wear indicator.

A broken brake booster may be the cause of the brake pedal get hard when pressed.


POWER BOOSTERS
Virtually all modern vehicles use a vacuum assisted power brake system to multiply the braking force and reduce pedal effort. Since vacuum is always available when the engine is operating, the system is simple and efficient. A vacuum diaphragm is located on the front of the master cylinder and assists the driver in applying the brakes, reducing both the effort and travel he must put into moving the brake pedal.
The vacuum diaphragm housing is normally connected to the intake manifold by a vacuum hose. A check valve is placed at the point where the hose enters the diaphragm housing, so that during periods of low manifold vacuums brakes assist will not be lost.
Depressing the brake pedal closes off the vacuum source and allows atmospheric pressure to enter on one side of the diaphragm. This causes the master cylinder pistons to move and apply the brakes. When the brake pedal is released, vacuum is applied to both sides of the diaphragm and springs return the diaphragm and master cylinder pistons to the released position.
If the vacuum supply fails, the brake pedal rod will contact the end of the master cylinder actuator rod and the system will apply the brakes without any power assistance. The driver will notice that much higher pedal effort is needed to stop the car and that the pedal feels harder than usual.

For a shop,from two to three hours.