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Buick brakes repair questions and answers

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  • bob
    bob - 2003 Buick Park Avenue - Brakes - 7/26/2014
    2003 buick park ave problem. when in put in gear all gauges start fluctuating up and down. When car goes into park it qu
    2003 buick park ave problem. when in put in gear all gauges start fluctuating up and down. When car goes into park it quits. 2x when I turned to the right abs light went on and gauges were ok. only happened twice though. when abs light comes on the gauges start ...
     
    • Chevy doctor
      7/26/2014 Chevy doctor
      More than likely there is a short in the IPC or known as the cluster. If you are not experiencing any voltage fluctuations such as lights flickering. Then your alternator should be charging. The park avenues have had cluster issues but its usually one gauge or 2 gauges that the needle flipped around. Make sure your battery doesn't have a bad cell or loose connections.
      Chevy doctor
      7/26/2014 bob
      I do side work repairing clusters. The problem is usually bad solder joints on the 150 ohm resistor. There so small they look like diodes. I go to radio shack and buy a 5 pack for $1.29. The resistors from RS are much larger so soldering is hard. You can take you finger and just lightly touch the resistors and they will fall off. Thanks for the answer any other suggestions are welcome.
  • bob
    bob - 2003 Buick Park Avenue - Brakes - 7/26/2014
    2003 buick park ave problem. when in put in gear all gauges start fluctuating up and down. When car goes into park it qu
    2003 buick park ave problem. when in put in gear all gauges start fluctuating up and down. When car goes into park it quits. 2x when I turned to the right abs light went on and gauges were ok. only happened twice though. when abs light comes on the gauges start ...
     
    0 answer
  • darrell
    darrell - 2002 Buick LeSabre - Brakes - 7/1/2014
    Break light, ABS light, and Tire pressure lights are on at the same time. what does that mean?
    the car drives fine with no signs of breaks not working. no sounds or grinding. can I fix this myself?
     
    • AutoMD Member
      7/1/2014 AutoMD Member
      I'm just gonna throw a guess out there, but it's probably an ABS sensor on one of your wheels. That could explain the brake light and ABS light. Not quite sure why the tire pressure light is on though.

      For a while, my ABS light was on, and it was because of a bad sensor and a bad wheel bearing. So it's probably one of those two. The only part that sucks, is there are four sensors on any given car with ABS brakes... So it'll be a pain to figure out which sensor it is, if the sensor is even the problem.

      If I were you, I'd use a code scanner to pinpoint what exactly the problem is.
      Good luck!!!
      AutoMD Member
      7/2/2014 darrell
      thank you.
  • darrell
    darrell - 2002 Buick LeSabre - Brakes - 6/30/2014
    Break light, ABS Light, and Tire pressure lights are on at same time. What does this mean?
    The car drives great with no sign that anything is wrong. Can I fix this myself?
     
    0 answer
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 2005 Buick LeSabre - Brakes - 6/10/2014
    Why do i feel a bump when i put on brakes and let go
    i don't feel it if i stop easy and take off easy
     
    0 answer
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 2005 Buick LeSabre - Brakes - 6/10/2014
    Why do i feel a bump when i put on brakes and let go
    i don't feel it if i stop easy and take off easy
     
    0 answer
  • rob1macho
    rob1macho - 2002 Buick Century - Brakes - 5/31/2014
    Auto Doc estimates
    I see your estimates for auto shop work. Why are they way more $$$ when i go to the shops. Where are the savings @
     
    • Jimm
      5/31/2014 Jimm
      Keep in mind these are only estimates with no guaranteed savings - and they will have variance, just like if you went to any two or more repair shops in your location for the same work on the same vehicle. Each repair shop is free to charge labor repair rates based on the market conditions and competition - among other factors in order to make a profit and stay in business.
  • rob1macho
    rob1macho - 2002 Buick Century - Brakes - 5/13/2014
    AutMd diagnosis adapter stated codes & problem .However shops want another test done in there shop !! Why ???
    I attach my Auto MD and get a diagnosis when I take it to a mechanic they tell me they must do a diagnosis. "Confused
     
    0 answer
  • rob1macho
    rob1macho - 2002 Buick Century - Brakes - 5/9/2014
    My ABS diag codes : C1226 & C1245.
    Diagnosis report says rt front excessive wheel speed sensor variation also master cylinder sensor pressure always high
     
    • Jimm
      5/9/2014 Jimm
      Check the connector on the LF wheel. It may be damaged, loose or the connection corroded. Removing the wheel would be best to see the wires and connector. The wires and the connector will be very obvious as they are the only things going toward the back of the spindle. The connector may be damaged, loose or the connection point could be corroded. Disconnect the connector and look at the contact surfaces. The same type of connector is at each wheel and senses the speed of the wheel to be fed back to the PCM.

      C1245 = Tire Pressure Monitor, simply reset the tire pressure monitor, once all four tires air pressures are adjusted to within the specified range.
      Jimm
      5/13/2014 rob1macho
      Jim+I+agree+with+you+totally.++I+tested+wit+my+CaMd++now+when+i+take+to+shop+they+say+car+needs+diag+tst+.+Why%3F%3F
      Jimm
      5/23/2014 rob1macho
      Took it to mech and they changed the wheel hub $200. And and light just came back on the following day. They didn't do what you explained , what should do. I feel scammed ? Help
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 1992 Buick Century - Brakes - 3/21/2014
    Why does my car jerk, sputter, and sometimes go dead when i apply the brakes, but run ok the rest of the time?
    car has 196000 miles on it. runs ok up until i apply the brakes, then will jerk, sputter, and sometimes go dead. it will crank right back up after it does this. does not do it ALL the time, just sometimes. car runs ok except for this.
     
    • Jimm
      3/21/2014 Jimm
      Since the brakes have vacuum assist (vacuum booster) supplied and actuated by the engine vacuum - start with the power brake booster vacuum hose and hose connection - work backward towards the engine connection point.
      Look or cracks / damaged hose and inspect the hose connection at the booster. Replace as necessary.
  • AutoMD Member
    AutoMD Member - 1992 Buick Century - Brakes - 3/20/2014
    Why does my car go dead when I put the brake on?
    It dont do it all the time but when I put the brakes on the car goes dead.I can put ii in neutral and it cranks right back up and go.But lately i have to crank it 2 or 3 times before it will go.
     
    • HouseCallAuto
      3/20/2014 HouseCallAuto
      Hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve on the fuel rail and watch the fuel pressure closely when you step on the brake pedal. if the pressure drops off as soon as you apply the brake then check the ground wire in the trunk behind the left wheel housing for a possible poor connection or corrosion. Repair as necessary.
  • jordanmtuten
    jordanmtuten - 2006 Buick LaCrosse - Brakes - 9/11/2013
    Rear brake sticking.
    I have been experiencing that the rear passenger side brakes smell warm/hot. Has anyone else experienced sticking brakes and if so any remedies?
     
    • CVO
      9/11/2013 CVO
      Check the hose brake from the rear passenger side, it must have plugged with residue and hold the return pressure back to the brake lines.
  • rlawhon
    rlawhon - 1996 Buick Century - Brakes - 9/6/2013
    Having brake problems,
    I have a brake problem on a 1996 Buick Century Custom with ABS anti-lock brakes. Engine 3.1 Liter V6. (New pads) Right front brake pads wear out in about two months down to metal to metal. The other side is still like new. Replaced with new brake rotor, new ...
     
    • Jimm
      9/6/2013 Jimm
      Several possibilities; sticking brake caliper piston (replace the caliper), contaminated brake fluid (change / flush the brake fluid) in the system which causes the sticking brake caliper piston, collapsed front flexible brake hose (replace the hose).
      Check the many on-line auto parts sources, such as; www.autopartswarehouse.com, wwwpartsgeek.com, www.autoanything.com and www.rockauto.com - to list only a few sources. For example, they (Rock Auto) list the front brake caliper from around $12.50, and the front disc brake pads from around $8.20 (per axle set) for your vehicle.

      Realize that brake fluid is hygroscopic - meaning that the fluid is designed to absorb / suspend moisture. In the mositure is contamination from; the air, and particles from the brake system components, and dirt. Over time and mileage accumulated, and if the brake fluid becomes contaminated to the point it cannot absorb more impurities, then these impurities are deposited in the brake system; inside the brake calipers (disc brakes), wheel cylinders (drum brakes), and the flexible brake hoses - to name only a few areas.

      The build up of the dirt will then cause the caliper pistons to bind, the wheel cylinder pistons to stick - and the brake wear is accelerated as the brake pads and / or shoes cannot fully retract. This is the condition you have experienced.
      Going forward, keep the system maintained and clean with regular brake fluid changes, and start with new / remanufactured brake calipers for safety sake.
  • rlawhon
    rlawhon - 1996 Buick Century - Brakes - 9/6/2013
    We have replaced the brake pads on the right front twice. They only last a few short months and wear.
    They begin to grind and ruin the rotor Auto Zone will no longer warranty them because they feel something else is causing the problem. Any suggestions?
     
    • Jimm
      9/5/2013 Jimm
      Several possibilities; sticking brake caliper piston (replace the caliper), contaminated brake fluid (change / flush the brake fluid) in the system which causes the sticking brake caliper piston, collapsed front flexible brake hose (replace the hose).
      Check the many on-line auto parts sources, such as; www.autopartswarehouse.com, wwwpartsgeek.com, www.autoanything.com and www.rockauto.com - to list only a few sources. For example, they (Rock Auto) list the front brake caliper from around $12.50, and the front disc brake pads from around $8.20 (per axle set) for your vehicle.
      Jimm
      9/5/2013 rlawhon
      Rotor, caliper, and brake pads have been replaced on the right side. They only last 2 months and are metal to metal. The left side was replaced over a year ago and is still like new. Brake fluid and hose have been checked. Any other suggestions?
    • HouseCallAuto
      9/5/2013 HouseCallAuto
      Do not assume that the side that is going metal to metal is the side with the problem. Most times the side that shows less wear is the side with the bad caliper or bad hose. Moral of this advice is make sure both calipers and both hoses are replaced and not "checked".
    • Jimm
      9/6/2013 Jimm
      House Call Auto is correct - replace the brake calipers as well as the brake fluid in the system.

      Realize that brake fluid is hygroscopic - meaning that the fluid is designed to absorb / suspend moisture. In the mositure is contamination from; the air, and particles from the brake system components, and dirt. Over time and mileage accumulated, and if the brake fluid becomes contaminated to the point it cannot absorb more impurities, then these impurities are deposited in the brake system; inside the brake calipers (disc brakes), wheel cylinders (drum brakes), and the flexible brake hoses - to name only a few areas.

      The build up of the dirt will then cause the caliper pistons to bind, the wheel cylinder pistons to stick - and the brake wear is accelerated as the brake pads and / or shoes cannot fully retract. This is the condition you have experienced.

      In the future, keep the system maintained and clean with regular brake fluid changes, and start with new / remanufactured brake calipers for safety sake - of you and your passengers.
  • rlawhon
    rlawhon - 1996 Buick Century - Brakes - 9/6/2013
    We replaced brake drums on right front. They wear in a few short months.
    They grind and ruin the rotor. Auto Zone will not longer warranty them because they think something else is causing the problem. Any suggestions?
     
    • bear.1216
      9/6/2013 bear.1216
      If the right front brake pads are wearing out that fast you likely have a caliper not releasing. This can be caused by a bad brake hose or bad caliper. If you open the bleeder screw when you push back the piston it should go in easy if it binds replace caliper. You should start by inspecting all 4 brakes for proper condition and operation. Jack up each wheel tire should spin freely then apply brakes and make sure tire does not turn then release brake and see if spins free again. That should show which brakes work and if the calipers are releasing. Non-functioning rear brakes can cause the fronts to wear out fast. Check all 4 brakes for cracked hoses leaks premature or uneven pad wear and condition of rotors. You most likely need a new caliper. Calipers should always be replaced in pairs. I would recommend 2 front loaded calipers 2 rotors replace any bad hoses or lines and bleed all 4 brakes. If you change brakes only on one side you may cause uneven wear and brake pull.
      bear.1216
      9/6/2013 rlawhon
      The caliper is new and the rotor.
      bear.1216
      9/6/2013 bear.1216
      Is the brake dragging or wheel heating up while driving. Does vehicle pull right or left when brakes applied. If its not dragging and getting hot then you should check operation of the other three brakes. The side wearing out may be the only one operating correctly. If you bleed all four they should have the same pressure fluid stream out of each bleeder. You may have no pressure going to left front and right rear.
 
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