Check the wiring and connections common to both speakers - from the stereo back to the speakers - as a first step.

When fuse-blows recurs it's usually a short, like a hot wire touching ground or another wire .It could be that somewhere in the harnest there's melted insulation.If it only blows after you've driven for a while it means that whatever it is,is shaking and coming into contact only sometimes.A continuity test needs to be done,but you are doing it yourself,be careful.Information in the Haynes repair says that it's easy to damage the P.C.M. if you probe around with a powered tester.

Does this car have illuminated entry option? When you move the outside door handle the interior lights go on?

By circuit breaker - do you mean the relay for the window motor? If yes, and given the description provided - I'd say the relay / electrical panel needs replacing - as you are not getting proper contact at the relay. The relay and connection should not get 'hot' when energized.

Have you checked related fuses ?

Just went through the problem. Mine however started by the fan seemingly going to a lower speed then eventually cutting out. Then you would have to give it a knock to get it started and that wouldn't last long before you'd have to pull over and do it again. Since the fan is always running unless you select off, the brushes in the fan motor were worn out. I had to replace the motor since there is no way to change the brushes.

The I / O logic ( input/output ) of the dashboard quit.
Do a reset by disconnecting both of the battery terminals for an hour and rubbing them ( the terminals ) prior for the battery re-connection.If it doesn't work , then the dashboard is the culprit.

See these sites.
http://www.gminstrumentcluster.com/gm-cluster-repair/


http://www.mrwhizard.com/


http://www.gaugepegged.com/


http://www.ddinstruments.com/index.php

Check your fuel sending unit, it located in the floor trunk.Remove the wiring connecting to the sender and ground it, the fuel gauge must move to the FULL zone, then the fuel gauge is the culprit.

If it is the fuel gauge doesn't moved, then the fuel sender is the problem.

Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Relieve the fuel system pressure.
Drain the fuel tank with a hand held siphon until the level is less than 1 / 4 full.
Remove or disconnect the following:
WARNING
When the lockring is removed from the fuel sender, the sender assembly will spring up. Downward pressure should be kept on the assembly and slowly released to ensure the sender assembly does not get damaged.



Negative battery cable
Spare tire and jack
Floor trunk liner by pulling it back
Fuel sender access panel
Fuel tank pressure sensor electrical connector
Fuel sender electrical connector
Fuel sender assembly quick connect fittings
Retaining lock-ring from the fuel sender