The transmission will need to be removed in order to replace the input shaft bearing.
Same procedure for changing a clutch. So in replacing the input shaft bearing - go ahead and replace the clutch; friction disc, throwout bearing and pressure plate.
- A good set of sockets from 9mm up to 32mm
- 3/8 or 1/2 inch (recomended) drive ratchets
- Socket extensions to get into those hard to reach places
- 1/2 inch Breaker bar
- Hex key for interlock guide bolt
- Flat and phillips head scredrivers
- Torque wrench
- Trolley jack
- Axle stands
- Around 2.5 to 3L of Manual Tranmission Fluid (MTF)
- High temp CV joint grease
- Hondabond or equivalent sealant to seal up the transmission housing
- Input Shaft Bearing
- Rubber oil seal under the ISB
- Any other bearings that might need to be changed (check them now cause you don't wanna do this again).
1. First you need to jack up the car and support it with axle stands. Then take both rims off and disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Next you need to drain the gearbox oil. With the car properly supported by jack stands, look through the driver side wheel arch and undo the oil drain bolt till all the oil in the gearbox is empty.
3. Next, undo the 32mm hub nut that holds the driveshaft to the wheel hub. Use a flat head screwdriver to lift up the tab of the hub nut that keeps it from spining. Once this is done, unscrew the 32mm hub nut. You might need an air tool for this, but otherwise a breaker bar for sure. There's a few ways to remove this without an air tool - breaker bar, etc.
4. Now you need to pop the lower ball joint out. Many people have trouble with this. Most people tend to hammer the lower control arm (LCA) to pop the joint but there is an easier way. First, jack the entire hub assembly up by placing the jack under the LCA. Then, take out the cotter pin going through the castle nut at the bottom of the ball joint. Undo the castle nut but don't take it off, leave it a few turns on the ball joint bolt. Jack the hub enough so you can wedge the end of your breaker bar (or ratchet/anything solid) between the lower control arm and ball joint holder.
Make sure its sitting securely. Then lower your jack and the joint should pop. If it doesn't, just use your foot and give the wheel hub a whack straight down.
5. Once the ball joint is popped, push the tip of the axle through the center of the hub (use an extension and a hammer to hit it through if its hard to just push it) and let the drive shaft sit out.
6. Next you need to separate the driver side driveshaft from the transmission housing. When doing this, NEVER just pull on the shaft as you will pop the joints! To get it loose, you will have to wedge a screwdriver between the transmission casing and the inboard joint to pry it apart from the casing. Hold the driveshaft when prying it / pulling it out.
7. The passenger side driveshaft and intermediate shaft are a bit easier. After you have popped the passenger side lower ball joint and separated the axle from the hub, simply undo the 3 bolts near the oil filter that hold the intermediate shaft in place. Once these are undone, you can just slide the passenger side driveshaft and intermediate shaft out together as a single piece. These are the 3 bolts holding the intermediate shaft.
8. While under the car, you might as well take out the 2 bolts that connect the rear torsion mount to the transmission. There is also another bolt that connects the engine to the tranny.
9. While we are still under the car, there are another 3-4 bolts that hold the flywheel cover in place
10. Next you need to undo the shift linkage(s). There is only one rod for changing gears, the other one is a stabilizer. The stabilizer comes off easy by simply undoing the bolt. Undo it and move it out of the way.
The next bit is a chore to do. You basically have to whack the spring clip out (use a hole punch or a bolt that is lying around) so you can separate the spring clip. It requires a heck of a lot of pounding to get out!
If this is a problem, disconnect the linkage at the base of the shifter and lower the tranny with the linkage still attached to the transmission.
11. Once this is done, get out from under the car and move towards the top. First, you need to unplug the following connectors from the top of the transmission housing. (It is best that you take out your airbox and intake arm to get easy access.)
A. Vehicle speed sensor (VSS)
B. Backup light switch
C. O2 sensor connector
D. The two connectors going to the back of the starter
*You do not have to take these sensors out yet, just unplug their connectors
12. Next take out the starter motor. There are two bolts that hold the starter motor in place on either side of the starter. Take them out, and then the starter motor should just slide out.
13. Now take out the clutch slave cylinder. First, remove the dust cover that protects
13. Now lets take out the clutch slave cylinder. Firstly remove the dust cover that protects the slave cylinder piston and the release fork. Then undo the 2 bolts that hold the slave cylinder hardline in place. Next undo the 2 bolts that hold the slave cylinder in place and then you can move the slave cylinder out of the way. We just tied the slave cylinder to the radiator fan bracket with some old wire! Be very careful that you do not bend the clutch hard line and also make sure you don't operate the clutch once this is done!
14. Now proceed to removing the tranny from the engine. You need to support the engine first, so place a piece of wood under the sump, and use a jack to support the engine under the sump (the wood prevents the sump getting damaged by the jack). You can use your trolley jack or even the stock honda jack. Jack it up till the engine/tranny rise up a little so you know for sure the jack(s) are taking the weight.
15. With the engine/tranny properly supported, lets get to separating the tranny from the engine. Take out the 5 bolts that hold the tranny to the engine. Note there is one bolt under where the slave cylinder sits.
16. Next are the transmission mounts. There are two on the driver side. The top mount and the front mount. Around now is a good time to put another jack under the transmission to help support it while you take it out. The tranny is not all that heavy, but its weight distribution makes it hard to handle.
Take out the ground cable that connects from the car body to the transmission first - then undo the 3 bolts that hold the top mount to the transmission.
17. Then undo the 3 bolts that hold the front tranny mount to the tranny.
18. To remove the front mount completely, there are two bolts that go into the body (sorry no pic, but once you pop your head under the car and move away the splash guard you'll see it!)
Now all the bolts are out and the tranny is ready to be separated
19. Lean over the driver side front quarter panel and (with a jack positioned with some wood on it, under the tranny) shake the tranny from side to side to get apart from the engine. The best way is to use a hammer and hit against the opening for the release fork a few times, then do the same on the opposite end, hiting the tranny against the diff casing. Once it is loose, make sure you support it properly as you slide the tranny out. Putting excessive weight on the input shaft splines could damage not only the splines and the input shaft, but also your clutch!
20. With the transmission free - be sure to tape the input shaft splines to protect from damage.
Changing the ISB
21. With the input shaft taped up, place the tranny with the input shaft facing downwards, and make sure you place it on two blocks of wood in order to prevent damaging the input shaft.
22. Undo the 32mm sealing bolt using a 3/8 inch drive.
23. Unscrew and remove the backup light switch and then loosen the transmission housing attaching bolts in a criss cross pattern and remove them.
24. Use a wedge or a hammer to separate the transmission housing from the clutch housing (note you will not be able to remove the transmission housing completely till you get the snap ring out in the next step).
25. Expand the snap ring on the countershaft bearing using either some snap ring pliers or conventional pliers. NOTE: that this part is very tricky and can be quite time consuming!! You have to yank the case up and shimmy it while expanding the snap ring, in order to get it out of the groove and off the bearing!
26. Once you get the snap ring out, the tranny housing case should lift off! The reason you have to move it around is also because the mainshaft bearing sits in the transmission housing.
27. To get to the ISB, we need to lift out the shift fork assemblies and the gearsets. First undo the reverse shift holder by taking the two bolts holding it down. Then lift the reverse idler shaft straight up and take out the reverse idler gear.
Reverse shift holder:
28. First undo the linterlock guide bolt (hex key required) found on the clutch housing side. Then undo the Shift Arm B Attaching bolt and washer on top of the interlock.
29. You can now pull the shift fork assemblies and gearsets straight out of the tranny. Just grab the mainshaft and countershaft assemblies cleanly by the gears (not the sychro hub/color) and lift straight up. A bit of wiggling may be required.
30. The differential can be removed by lifting it straight out of the clutch housing.
From the top - Reverse Idler gear, Reverse shift holder, Reverse idler gear shaft, Differential and mainshaft/countershaft/shift fork assemblies.
31. Getting the ISB out is pretty easy. Just go in through the clutch housing side and tap the ISB out using a long extension and 5/8" socket. If you have trouble, just heat up the area around the ISB with a hair dryer.
32. Take out the oil seal using a flat head screwdriver.
33. Put a new oil seal in, then put the new ISB in and tap it down with even force.
34. Once you have changed the bearings, suggest you take out the 28mm plug bolt and 1st/2nd select spring so that you can turn the interlock in order to align it with the base of the shift forks.
35. Now lower the mainshaft/countershaft/shift fork assemblies and once the mainshaft/countershaft/shift fork assemblies are in, install the plug bolt (54Nm) and 1st/2nd select spring (put some liquid gasket on the threads of the plug bolt). Then install the shift Arm B attaching bolt+washer (31Nm) and make sure the interlock is lined up correctly with the base of the shift forks.
36. After you do this, ensure that the interlock is aligned up properly with the interlock guide bolt and tighten it (39Nm). If you don't, you will not only damage the interlock when you put the interlock guide bolt back in, but also be locked out of some gears.
37.Clean off any old sealant from the mating surfaces of the clutch/tranny housing and apply a new layer of liquid gasket.
38. Lower the tranny housing casing and expand the snap ring so that it sits in the groove of the countershaft bearing and also in the groove of the tranny housing casing. Once you get the snap ring half way in the groove, try turning the tranny on it side so the weight of the gearsets will pull the snap ring into its groove (kinda hard to expain, but you'll know when its in!)
39. Torque all the tranny housing bolts in a criss-cross even pattern to 27Nm (tighten them evenly first, then torque them after that).
40. Screw the backup light switch back up again.
41. Put some liquid gasket on the 32mm sealing bolt and torque it up to 25Nm.
42. Puting the tranny back in is pretty much the reverse of taking it out so just take your time and don't rush things.
43. Filing up the gearbox oil can be done either via the fill hole, or by taking out the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). There is ONLY 1 BOLT holding it in and it's a really tall bolt. Just fill it via the VSS hole till you see fluid coming out of the fill hole.