wbrockstar 9/4/2013Was the pedal hard to push before you disassembled everything or did it start after you repaired brake components??If it started before job,check the vacuum line for leaks or obstructions and also the brake booster check valve ( line and valve are attached to the brake booster) Remove valve from booster,blow air through booster side of check valve to make sure air passes through.If air passes through both sides of valve or neither side of valve,its bad so replace it.To check brake booster,run car at an idle for a couple of minutes,then shut engine
off.Next pump the brakes a few times to get rid of any remaining vacuum.Now continue to hold the pedal down and start the car.The pedal shouldve began to fall away towards the floor with very light pressure from your foot.Did this scenario just work correctly??If the booster failed this test,and the vacuum line and check valve are good,then its bad and should be replaced.For the brake warning light,sometimes after hose replacement and bleeding,the pressure differential control valve ( where the brake warning light switch is located) under master cylinder,gets off centered.Turn key on/engine off and push the brake pedal down a few times to recenter the control valve.Now check to see if the brake warning light has gone off.Make sure the master cylinder stays topped off with fluid
bear.1216 9/6/2013You should also scan your ABS to see why the light is on. The ABS code should help in your diagnosis. Also if you lost all of your brake fluid when the hose broke make sure you bleed the entire system. Start bleeding at the master cylinder and ABS controller and then the wheels. You may need a scan tool to bleed the ABS. Air in the lines usually causes spongy pedal but if the ABS controller lost fluid all the valves need to be reset for fluid to pass thru it. This can cause a hard pedal.